Dynatek 2000i ignition install
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Grand HDF Member
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From: Pasadena TX
Dynatek 2000i ignition install
My 99 Heritage started running poorly out of the rear cylinder. Cam position sensor failed, so I'm replacing the old ignition system with the Dynatek. The instructions are pretty clear on what to hook up, but no information at all on any suggestion on the best way to route the harness or how to get a single wire to the VOES switch. Does anyone out there have any hands on experience?
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,062
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From: Haslet Texas
My 99 Heritage started running poorly out of the rear cylinder. Cam position sensor failed, so I'm replacing the old ignition system with the Dynatek. The instructions are pretty clear on what to hook up, but no information at all on any suggestion on the best way to route the harness or how to get a single wire to the VOES switch. Does anyone out there have any hands on experience?
I try to make mine as hidden as possible.
As for the VOES all you have to do is identify the wire that goes up the wiring harness from the ignition module to the VOES (IIRC it's a purple wire) and splice into it.
Grand HDF Member
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From: Brighton, MI
I just followed the original path the wires took from the stock cam sensor, under the engine to the left side, up between the engine and tranny on the primary side, on up to underneath the seat region. My fuse box and Oem ignition module was located there so the connections were simple enough.
That was how it was stock on my Dyna, so I copied that exactly. The only wires I had to splice (actually removed it from the stock brain box connector) was the purple wire (VOES) and the tach wire (pink if I remember correctly). YD
That was how it was stock on my Dyna, so I copied that exactly. The only wires I had to splice (actually removed it from the stock brain box connector) was the purple wire (VOES) and the tach wire (pink if I remember correctly). YD
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Grand HDF Member
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From: Pasadena TX
Its on a Softail, and the stock routing was too long. I ended up brining it up the post behind the engine. I didnt want to cut any length out of it so its got some slack it it. I cut a window in the sleeve and fished the VOES wire out. I then unpinned the VOES wire out of the ignition module plug and joined the two under the seat. Bike still wont run on the rear cylinder lol, didnt need the ignition after all.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,062
Likes: 4,547
From: Haslet Texas
Its on a Softail, and the stock routing was too long. I ended up brining it up the post behind the engine. I didnt want to cut any length out of it so its got some slack it it. I cut a window in the sleeve and fished the VOES wire out. I then unpinned the VOES wire out of the ignition module plug and joined the two under the seat. Bike still wont run on the rear cylinder lol, didnt need the ignition after all.
Grand HDF Member
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From: Brighton, MI
Check the switch on the new module to see if it is set for single fire or dual fire? If that is set correctly, did you check the plugs or plug wires? YD
EDIT: Just read your other post, lots of good answers on that thread. I would physically look at the spark plugs (removed) while connected and laying on the head (make sure they have a good ground) and crank it to see if both plugs have nice blue spark. If both are sparking fine, then time for a compression check. YD
EDIT: Just read your other post, lots of good answers on that thread. I would physically look at the spark plugs (removed) while connected and laying on the head (make sure they have a good ground) and crank it to see if both plugs have nice blue spark. If both are sparking fine, then time for a compression check. YD
Last edited by Yankee Dog; Mar 18, 2019 at 06:07 PM.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,784
Likes: 100
From: Pasadena TX
Check the switch on the new module to see if it is set for single fire or dual fire? If that is set correctly, did you check the plugs or plug wires? YD
EDIT: Just read your other post, lots of good answers on that thread. I would physically look at the spark plugs (removed) while connected and laying on the head (make sure they have a good ground) and crank it to see if both plugs have nice blue spark. If both are sparking fine, then time for a compression check. YD
EDIT: Just read your other post, lots of good answers on that thread. I would physically look at the spark plugs (removed) while connected and laying on the head (make sure they have a good ground) and crank it to see if both plugs have nice blue spark. If both are sparking fine, then time for a compression check. YD
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