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Dynatek 2000i ignition install

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Old 03-17-2019, 06:11 PM
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Default Dynatek 2000i ignition install

My 99 Heritage started running poorly out of the rear cylinder. Cam position sensor failed, so I'm replacing the old ignition system with the Dynatek. The instructions are pretty clear on what to hook up, but no information at all on any suggestion on the best way to route the harness or how to get a single wire to the VOES switch. Does anyone out there have any hands on experience?
 
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Old 03-17-2019, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by just plain john
My 99 Heritage started running poorly out of the rear cylinder. Cam position sensor failed, so I'm replacing the old ignition system with the Dynatek. The instructions are pretty clear on what to hook up, but no information at all on any suggestion on the best way to route the harness or how to get a single wire to the VOES switch. Does anyone out there have any hands on experience?
As for routing it's dealers choice.
I try to make mine as hidden as possible.
As for the VOES all you have to do is identify the wire that goes up the wiring harness from the ignition module to the VOES (IIRC it's a purple wire) and splice into it.
 
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Old 03-18-2019, 10:54 AM
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I just followed the original path the wires took from the stock cam sensor, under the engine to the left side, up between the engine and tranny on the primary side, on up to underneath the seat region. My fuse box and Oem ignition module was located there so the connections were simple enough.

That was how it was stock on my Dyna, so I copied that exactly. The only wires I had to splice (actually removed it from the stock brain box connector) was the purple wire (VOES) and the tach wire (pink if I remember correctly). YD
 
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Old 03-18-2019, 02:40 PM
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It’s on a Softail, and the stock routing was too long. I ended up brining it up the post behind the engine. I didn’t want to cut any length out of it so it’s got some slack it it. I cut a window in the sleeve and fished the VOES wire out. I then unpinned the VOES wire out of the ignition module plug and joined the two under the seat. Bike still won’t run on the rear cylinder lol, didn’t need the ignition after all.
 
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Old 03-18-2019, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by just plain john
It’s on a Softail, and the stock routing was too long. I ended up brining it up the post behind the engine. I didn’t want to cut any length out of it so it’s got some slack it it. I cut a window in the sleeve and fished the VOES wire out. I then unpinned the VOES wire out of the ignition module plug and joined the two under the seat. Bike still won’t run on the rear cylinder lol, didn’t need the ignition after all.
If your old cam position sensor was melted then you did need it.
 
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Old 03-18-2019, 05:55 PM
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Check the switch on the new module to see if it is set for single fire or dual fire? If that is set correctly, did you check the plugs or plug wires? YD

EDIT: Just read your other post, lots of good answers on that thread. I would physically look at the spark plugs (removed) while connected and laying on the head (make sure they have a good ground) and crank it to see if both plugs have nice blue spark. If both are sparking fine, then time for a compression check. YD
 

Last edited by Yankee Dog; 03-18-2019 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 03-18-2019, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Yankee Dog
Check the switch on the new module to see if it is set for single fire or dual fire? If that is set correctly, did you check the plugs or plug wires? YD

EDIT: Just read your other post, lots of good answers on that thread. I would physically look at the spark plugs (removed) while connected and laying on the head (make sure they have a good ground) and crank it to see if both plugs have nice blue spark. If both are sparking fine, then time for a compression check. YD
Both plugs spark when laid on the heads, and they are new plugs gapped at .040. Compression on both cylinders is at 90 psi, ok per the service manual. I’m stumped, but I’ve eliminated a few possible causes.
 
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