I just picked up the Moonraker. The motor is a 99 Evo. Had the top end done..and thought it would be fun to compare recommendations on breaking it in.
What say y’all..????

 

Depends on the build specs, non hipo give it 50mi. to settle in an oil change & go. Tight performance engine I like at least 250 to 500 mi on the easy side before pushing it. Does make a difference regardless of what the break it in like you'll ride it crew's mantra. Your heat I'd err on the easy side for while if it was mine.

 

There are plenty of ways to break in a top end, or engine. Here are two that have been around for a while with a few satisfied customers. Pick one. :-)

Engine Break-In Procedure
Note: S&S engines are designed for high performance and as such are not as tolerant of inadequate break-in as stock or lower performance engines. Correct breakin will assure longer engine life and will prevent unnecessary engine damage. Engine damage caused by improper break-in is not covered under the S&S warranty.

A. Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time, check to see that oil pressure is normal, that oil is returning the oil tank, and that no leaks exist.

B. Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the touch.

C. After engine has cooled, start up again and allow the motor to build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes. When the cylinders become warm/ hot to the touch (approximately 150°) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow the same cautions as for the initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems.

D. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase the temp slightly each time (+10°). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Don't be too concerned with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready to start the 1000 mile engine break-in process.

E. The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Engine damage is most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary the engine speed. Do not lug the engine. We recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.

F. The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph. Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles.

CAUTION: Lugging or running engine prematurely at sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and other engine components. S&S voids it's guarantee if engine is not broken in properly.

G. For the balance of the first 1000 miles the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine: no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation.

H. After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can now be operated normally.

I.Have Fun!

From Harley-Davidson break in

BREAK-IN: THE FIRST 500 MILES (800 KM) The sound design, quality materials, and workmanship that is built into your new Harley-Davidson will give you optimum performance right from the start. We ask that for the first 500 miles (800 km) and to wear-in critical parts, please observe the simple riding rules below. This will assure future performance and durability. 1. During the first 50 miles (80 km), keep the engine speed below 2500 RPM in any gear. However, do not lug the engine. 2. Up to 500 miles (800 km), vary the engine speed and avoid any steady speed for long distances. Engine speed up to 3000 RPM is permissible in any gear. 3. Avoid fast starts at wide open throttle. Drive slowly until engine warms up. 4. Avoid running the engine at extremely low RPM in higher gears. • Do NOT exceed 50 mph (80 km/h) for the first 50 miles (80 km). • Do NOT exceed 55 mph (89 km/h) for the first 50-500 miles (80-800 km).

 

Man, break in techniques can be a oil thread, theory's differ and can see by the S&S and Harley recommendations Harley wants you to trailer the bike it's first 500 miles. Have been to several manufacture engine training for diesel engines and they don't want a new engine idled at all, want it loaded immediately using cylinder heat to seat a chrome moly ring.

Personally start up the engine, check it for leaks, loose stuff and if all ok the engine goes on the road running it like everyday riding with a Wego monitoring it and not letting the engine idle very long. Try to keep it loaded going down the road putting pressure on the cylinders to seat the rings, won't baby it but won't see a rev limiter bounce until a couple hundred miles.

 

Air cooled engine is a complete different animal verse a diesel or automotive design, the bearings alone are polar opposites. They don't cross well in the break in advice category.......

 

Bullcrap my friend, OP asked top end but I'll stick to a break in procedure recommendations of a $40,0000 750,000 mile engine including load the bottom end in order to seat a chrome moly ring. In this advice I run a 140 hp engine on the street with no oil useage, no misting and has never been babied, like I said break in a oil thread, do what turns you on and I'll continue to give advice from results based on chrome moly to cast liner seating.

Be interested on your theory of why a Harley lower roller bearing cannot handle a load when a stock crank will break before a bearing will fail when being pushed to the limit. Does chrome moly rings and cast liners have different tendencies in a Harley against a Diesel at 200 degrees on both engines.

 

Have to agree with bagger. I read an article from a link I found on this site that had some very interesting information in it. In a nutshell though it said ride like you stole it for the break in....I did exactly what the article said when I rebuilt my top end 4 years and 40k miles ago. Not one problem and uses o oil between changes. I will try and find the link for you.

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

So 3 different break in procedures on the table, do we use straight weight oil or synthetic? lol

On the article listed does fall into what major line haul diesel engine RING SEATING procedure manufacturers want, either put the truck on a dyno with resistance or hooked to a loaded trailer and targeting chrome moly ring seating for warranty coverage.

Most don't want to run a new top end hard and understandable, it's like a new born baby to them, precious plus expensive. It is a machine, with a good machinest or knowing it has proper piston to cylinder wall clearance it can handle some cylinder load.

 

After my recent top end, was told to run 20-50 dino oil for 500 miles,then changed to mobil 1 15-50. I rode it at different interval rpm's no higher than 4500. That's usually my limit anyway.At 10k no issues.Like others said don't baby it.