My carb was binge eating dirt again. Head removal?
#22
Yes, it still has the solid pushrods; I told my indy to keep them when I had the cam done a few years ago. Thanks for the heads up
#23
Finally got the head off today. Went by the service manual and slow so I didn't mess anything up. Worse thing that happened was I lost one of the rocker cover allen bolts/washers in the frame. Looking at the top of the Piston I saw a cple pebbles of sand. On the head you can see a little smthng but I'm not sure if that happened when I was taking it off. Do you think it's ok to just use air on it or should I continue with disassembly? On another note my head has a ridiculous amt of carbon build up. What's the best way to get it off?
Rear piston
Close up
Rear head
Rear piston
Close up
Rear head
#24
That's more than a few pebbles keep going take cylinders off clean then up nice. You might be able to just get away with just reassembling it and way to go with some gaskets, it's not like you had anything malfunctioning and it didn't run when it sucked that **** in, if you know what I mean. Obviously it's stalled out pretty quick so you might get away with just taking it apart. lift the cylinders up off the pistons, remove the rings off pistons and clean the grooves.. Make sure there's nothing down in there and I think you'll be good to go. I also know exactly what rocker cover bolt you lost.... Left rear corner on the rear cylinder, lol... I did it myself.. **** happens... actually I think I got a couple of them down where the old Pogo used to go for the seat... Lol....
Did want to mention your AFR's are pretty good.. the piston tops look ok.. Once you get the rings off you canwire brush the top of the Pistons clean no big deal...
How many miles on this build?
Did want to mention your AFR's are pretty good.. the piston tops look ok.. Once you get the rings off you canwire brush the top of the Pistons clean no big deal...
How many miles on this build?
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; 07-18-2019 at 04:37 PM.
#25
That's more than a few pebbles keep going take cylinders off clean then up nice. You might be able to just get away with just reassembling it and way to go with some gaskets, it's not like you had anything malfunctioning and it didn't run when it sucked that **** in, if you know what I mean. Obviously it's stalled out pretty quick so you might get away with just taking it apart. lift the cylinders up off the pistons, remove the rings off pistons and clean the grooves.. Make sure there's nothing down in there and I think you'll be good to go. I also know exactly what rocker cover bolt you lost.... Left rear corner on the rear cylinder, lol... I did it myself.. **** happens... actually I think I got a couple of them down where the old Pogo used to go for the seat... Lol....
Did want to mention your AFR's are pretty good.. the piston tops look ok.. Once you get the rings off you canwire brush the top of the Pistons clean no big deal...
How many miles on this build?
Did want to mention your AFR's are pretty good.. the piston tops look ok.. Once you get the rings off you canwire brush the top of the Pistons clean no big deal...
How many miles on this build?
Before I take off the cylinder does it matter that the Piston is not at the top of the cylinder? When I set tdc I put my finger over the spark plug hole until I got the blast of air, then I rotated a hair more until the tdc line was in the middle of the hole.
What should I use to clean the cylinder + Piston grooves?
Can I use a wire brush to clean the carbon off the head/valves also?
I'm not sure how many miles on the build, I gotta take a look thru the archives. A super rough guestimate would be 1-3k? It has OEM head, 10:1 pistons, diff cylinders bored .030. And yes, left corner rocker cover bolt was the one.
#26
What I do is, on the cylinder that I'm going to be pulling, I pull the piston down to bdc. Then keep turning the crank over a little while liftng the cylinder up to clear the spigot from the case. then stop there and then just wiggle it back and forth sliding the cylinder up and off. Make sure you take a towel and wrap the whole area in the case's so nothing goes down in there... Carefully take your rings off, pay very close attention to the way you took them off to reinstall exactly the same.. quick wire brush then just take some brake clean and rinse the piston and blue of with shop air. It doesn't have to be polished just clean. Replace the base gasket. Install the oil rings the the 2nd and first ring. You will need to clock the rings.. Do you have Factory Service Manual? Your gonna need it.. coat the rings with tranny fluid or marvel mystery oil, just enough to aide in slipping the cylinder back over the piston.. once that cylinder is assembled get 2, 1" long pieces of 3/4" PVC pipe and use 2 short head bolts too secure the cylinder. Then move on to the next cylinder... Make sure you put a clean towel over the completed cylinder..
You can use a small wire wheel on the combustion chambers at low speed and shop air... Blow out around the valves real good.. You don't have to go nuts.. Brake kleen and shop air for the ports will be fine..
You can use a small wire wheel on the combustion chambers at low speed and shop air... Blow out around the valves real good.. You don't have to go nuts.. Brake kleen and shop air for the ports will be fine..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; 07-18-2019 at 08:34 PM.
#27
What I do is, on the cylinder that I'm going to be pulling, I pull the piston down to bdc. Then keep turning the crank over a little while liftng the cylinder up to clear the spigot from the case. then stop there and then just wiggle it back and forth sliding the cylinder up and off. Make sure you take a towel and wrap the whole area in the case's so nothing goes down in there... Carefully take your rings off, pay very close attention to the way you took them off to reinstall exactly the same.. quick wire brush then just take some brake clean and rinse the piston and blue of with shop air. It doesn't have to be polished just clean. Replace the base gasket. Install the oil rings the the 2nd and first ring. You will need to clock the rings.. Do you have Factory Service Manual? Your gonna need it.. coat the rings with tranny fluid or marvel mystery oil, just enough to aide in slipping the cylinder back over the piston.. once that cylinder is assembled get 2, 1" long pieces of 3/4" PVC pipe and use 2 short head bolts too secure the cylinder. Then move on to the next cylinder... Make sure you put a clean towel over the completed cylinder..
You can use a small wire wheel on the combustion chambers at low speed and shop air... Blow out around the valves real good.. You don't have to go nuts.. Brake kleen and shop air for the ports will be fine..
You can use a small wire wheel on the combustion chambers at low speed and shop air... Blow out around the valves real good.. You don't have to go nuts.. Brake kleen and shop air for the ports will be fine..
You also said "once that cylinder is assembled get 2, 1" long pieces of 3/4" PVC pipe and use 2 short head bolts too secure the cylinder. Then move on to the next cylinder". I was planning on completly re-assembling the rear before moving to the front. Is it easier your way?
#28
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07-19-2019 12:49 PM