EVO All Evo Model Discussion

TRUE DUALS less than 3.00 really!

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  #11  
Old 06-01-2008, 09:25 AM
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Default RE: TRUE DUALS less than 3.00 really!

OK, I'm posting this as an "edit" as well as a new post to the thread. Not sure how this forum handles everything.
All you need is a piece of 1 1/2 pipe about 4 inches long. Get a coupling from the "fast-food" parts store for about 2.00 and tax, or a piece of scrap from a muffler shop. Using the coupler, you may need to roll it around on the SIDE of a benck grinder wheel to get the high spots out of it. Either way, get it so it'll easily slip into the H pipe (from the muffler end) at least half-way. Then split it long way with a hack saw or thin grinder wheel.
Remove your muffler, clock the sliced area about 90 degrees from the opening in the H pipe and using a hammer and a piece of heavy pipe or big rod, tap it into the H pipe until it covers the area where the rear down pipe intersects. There is enough ragged left from the factory to grip the adapter and not let it move around.
You can use a coathanger with a short L bend to check whether you've covered the opening, or guage the same if you don't want to totally block it off.
Word of caution - after slicing, the adapter should slip rather easily into the main pipe at least to where the downpipe starts into the main. Otherwise, you may have trouble getting it all the way in. If not, work it down on the grinder or make the slice wider. On a new H pipe, I was able to push the last one I made all the way with a D-cell maglite body and after 5000 miles, it hasn't moved. Works great!

[IMG]local://upfiles/6678/F40374257A034864944505F27CCC7887.jpg[/IMG]
 
  #12  
Old 06-01-2008, 05:58 PM
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Default RE: TRUE DUALS less than 3.00 really!

Just in case someone with a Shovel is looking at this, know that there is more work to be done. I don't know when HD stopped making their dresser exhaust as I'm about to describe, so check your system to be sure what you have.

On the older bikes the rear head pipe comes out of the head, then splits off - short stub that goes to the left side, and the "normal" pipe to the right side. Between where the left side stub branches off and where the right side section joins the front pipe, there is a piece welded into the pipe. This piece nearly closes off the pipe, but has a small hole, I forget the size, that allows that section of pipe to act as a crossover. If you want to change one of these pipes to an "El-Cheapo" true dual, or as I did, make an "El-Cheapo" old style 2-into-1 system, the pipe must be cut in two, the "crossover" venturi plate cut out, and the pipe welded back together. The heat shield covers the area where the cut & weld are, so it's not seen.
 
  #13  
Old 04-20-2009, 05:11 PM
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Saw the guys on ebay again, selling 2 freeze plugs, a band clamp and instructions on how to destroy a 200.00+ H-pipe to acheive a poor man's true dual. So thought I'd "bump" this thread to the top......

Only problem I personally have with mine is the sharp 90 the exhaust has to make, but the same holds true for "theirs" and a proper left pipe like Fullsac makes, or a complete set would give a smoother flow for the rear cylinder..... I think. I've got 20,000 miles on mine now and have no complaints
 

Last edited by t150vej; 04-20-2009 at 05:13 PM.
  #14  
Old 04-21-2009, 09:17 AM
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Im a dumb *** , can you put up pictures or diagram ? (direstions) ?
 
  #15  
Old 04-22-2009, 07:02 PM
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I had a pic posted, but that was when they only allowed like 3 photos or something size related... and I've deleted it out of the computer.

Take the right muffler off and use a bout a 4" long piece of exhaust pipe that will "almost" slip into the H-pipe where the muffler attaches. (right side) Split the 4" piece so it will have room to "squeeze" a little. Knock it into the right exhaust pipe until it covers the downpipe from the rear cylinder.
 
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