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Stuck float

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  #1  
Old 09-25-2010, 05:12 PM
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Default Stuck float

I got great advise here on replacing the rocker cover gaskets on an 89 . Leak is fixed but after replacing the gas tank I now have a stuck float in the carb. Is there an easier way to fix that besides taking the carb off? i would like to ride this thing but I can't seem to get it out of the garage.
 
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Old 09-25-2010, 05:57 PM
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hit the carb with a hammer, it might unstick the float. not to hard tho. when my 85 started to stick i had to replace the needle valve. a hammer would work once in a while.
 
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Old 09-25-2010, 05:59 PM
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Try tapping the carb with the plastic handle of a screwdriver, lightly.

Also try turning off the fuel, start the bike and run it until it quits.

Turn the fuel back on and see what happens.

These are tricks used on the road when you really don`t want to remove a float bowl.

Best to remove the float bowl and give it a shot of carb cleaner, you can do that with the carb installed, if you can get the screws out...
 
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Old 09-25-2010, 08:51 PM
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You may be facing more of a problem than you think. How much Ethenol is in the fuel in Ne.

You don't have to remove the carb to get to the float. Just the four screws that hold the bowl on.


I've had the alcohol cause the little rubber tib come loose from the metal part. Remove it and if this is the case just use some super glue to glue it back on.

New technique: Shut the fuel off first, let engine idle a minute or two then shut the engine down, what this does is allow the float to drop out of position and extract the needle stop so the alcohol doesn't melt it to the fuel inlet. Start the bike then turn on the fuel, if in use. Of course if it is a cold start you will have to turn the fuel on first so there is some to fire the bike. You will have to start using that petcock shut-off valve.

I have/had the same problem with my wife's '85 FXEF. Eventually if the float is adjusted correctly this will go away. Every time I go into the carb it starts over until the little rubber thing re-adjust and starts working again.

Or you could just beat on the carb with a hammer or screwdriver. It might work!
 
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Old 09-25-2010, 09:07 PM
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The ethanol wreaks havoc on the rubber tip of float needle....It also eats up the accelerator pump diaphram if you have an accelerator pump and any O-rings that are used to provide a seal...It's a world we live in and I learned 2-weeks ago that an accelerator pump diaphram has a life span of 3-years!!! The material starts to crack and eventually breaks off into small pieces causing clogs/obstructions in passages that lead to poor fuel delivery....
 
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by SportsterBob
The ethanol wreaks havoc on the rubber tip of float needle....It also eats up the accelerator pump diaphram if you have an accelerator pump and any O-rings that are used to provide a seal...It's a world we live in and I learned 2-weeks ago that an accelerator pump diaphram has a life span of 3-years!!! The material starts to crack and eventually breaks off into small pieces causing clogs/obstructions in passages that lead to poor fuel delivery....
My old Mikuni HS40 is 20 years old, still original never been overhauled, the last 11 have been with Ethanol.

I think we are talking about a bit of debris stuck in the carb causing the float to not seat properly, a common occurrence, not a carburetor failure.
 
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:31 AM
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Sounds like when you put the fuel line back on you may have gotten some debris in the line or perhaps you "shaved" a little rubber off of the hose itself.
 
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Old 09-02-2022, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Kabear
You may be facing more of a problem than you think. How much Ethenol is in the fuel in Ne.

You don't have to remove the carb to get to the float. Just the four screws that hold the bowl on.


I've had the alcohol cause the little rubber tib come loose from the metal part. Remove it and if this is the case just use some super glue to glue it back on.

New technique: Shut the fuel off first, let engine idle a minute or two then shut the engine down, what this does is allow the float to drop out of position and extract the needle stop so the alcohol doesn't melt it to the fuel inlet. Start the bike then turn on the fuel, if in use. Of course if it is a cold start you will have to turn the fuel on first so there is some to fire the bike. You will have to start using that petcock shut-off valve.

I have/had the same problem with my wife's '85 FXEF. Eventually if the float is adjusted correctly this will go away. Every time I go into the carb it starts over until the little rubber thing re-adjust and starts working again.

Or you could just beat on the carb with a hammer or screwdriver. It might work!
I know it's a decade later , but yes for a couple of years now I have been having a problem with my bike, on cold start the bike will run until the bowl is empty and it stops , then I tap on it the carb and wait for 5 minutes and it will start , but it has gotten worse lately sometimes it won't start till hours later, and I have been postponing or avoiding taking the carb out, I had just rebuilt it a couple of years before that, I've always suspected the needle valve, so this morning I read your post , I went took the bowl out and the float and the needle valve , and lo and behold the rubber tip just fell in my hand luckily I still had the old (original) needle valve, so I used that one, thank you and hope my experience help someone else with the same symptoms.
 
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Old 09-02-2022, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Xguy
, I went took the bowl out and the float and the needle valve , and lo and behold the rubber tip just fell in my hand luckily I still had the old (original) needle valve, so I used that one, thank you and hope my experience help someone else with the same symptoms.
Haven't seen that happen very often. Ya got lucky

You didn't mention if you ck'd the float adjustment after putting in the old needle.
If you did great ___if not and it's doing good ya Got REAL lucky

Have a good 1 WP


 
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Old 09-02-2022, 09:11 PM
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My ‘89 dresser still has the stock Kiehin carb on it. Several years ago I got a rebuild kit and all the o-rings and such were made from Viton. I haven’t had any problems with it since the rebuild. Viton is compatible with ethanol, so when ya get your rebuild kit, make sure it has Viton o-rings.
 


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