EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Dodgy Ground/Earth?

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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 04:10 PM
  #21  
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Well! Back to the drawing board. They must have left that out of the older manuals as the 99 manual I have for Softails covers the International models also. Since the neutral switch only has the ground wire on it, you could ground it solid to see if it still blinks, for another little test. It should turn on the neutral light and of course keep it on even if the tranny is in gear. If it still blinks, that would tell you that it is not the transmission ground. If it stays on solid it would tell you that you might have a bad ground through the transmission or your neutral switch. I would hope at least it would tell us something. Yeah, it would help if you had the electrical layout for the International models.
Lets see. How far is it from Abilene Ks. to the UK. I don't think I can make it tomorrow. LOL. As you Brits say, its to bloody far. Well! unless you have cake of course.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 05:53 PM
  #22  
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In 1990 Harley struggled to make 50k bikes, only achieving that output by taking orders at the start of that model year and accepting no changes of orders throughout that year. Just a few years later they were making 4 times that many and peaked at well over 300k. So the changes within H-D in the interval between 90 and 99 were enormous!
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 08:53 PM
  #23  
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The neutral switch is essentialy a push button switch , tranny in neutral completes the path to ground. A faulty switch caused the same problem on my 1988 good luck
 
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 01:56 PM
  #24  
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I've made a start going over things today. I've separated the various multi-pin connectors and squirted Silicon grease in them, ditto a few smaller ones, disturbed the connections on the front forks valve (why are there 6 wires?!) and checked what I can in there. The earth to the handlebars, which I had no idea I had, looks fine.

I was reminded of a fundamental difference between my International FLHS and the US spec. I have five thermal cutouts in my nacelle, compared with three on US spec versions. Also my fender lights are wired via a relay that cuts cuts power to the entire bike when they are turned on, so can only be used when stopped, not on the move. I have only recently identified what I need to do to wire out that feature, but will leave it until after our trip in May.

I have a few other things to check before refitting the battery, to see if I have had any success.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 02:46 PM
  #25  
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Graham have you checked the wire that goes from the neutral switch all the way to where it connects back up to who knows where. I had found mine to be rather crispy and the cennector on the switch was a bit loose. I didn't change the wire other than reroute to cooler area but I did squeeze the end that goes on the switch to be a tighter fit along with a smear of die-electric grease/
 
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 02:54 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by RidemyEVO
Graham have you checked the wire that goes from the neutral switch all the way to where it connects back up to who knows where. I had found mine to be rather crispy and the cennector on the switch was a bit loose. I didn't change the wire other than reroute to cooler area but I did squeeze the end that goes on the switch to be a tighter fit along with a smear of die-electric grease/
Lynn,

I forgot to mention that, sorry, got distracted by evening meal! That connector is a funny thing. My clip is a good tight fit on the switch, but the rivetted wire connector is slightly loose on it. I need to clean it up to see if I can somehow tighten it. I have some nice little punches that should be suitable, if I can get an appropriate anvil in there, to thump it onto.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 04:06 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
Lynn,

I forgot to mention that, sorry, got distracted by evening meal! That connector is a funny thing. My clip is a good tight fit on the switch, but the rivetted wire connector is slightly loose on it. I need to clean it up to see if I can somehow tighten it. I have some nice little punches that should be suitable, if I can get an appropriate anvil in there, to thump it onto.
Maybe you can solder it solid.
No wire on my bike settles for crimping only.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 07:10 AM
  #28  
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Graham, solder the wire, also there are actually four manuals for all Harleys. First is the owners manual, second is the repair manual, third is the parts manual, and lastly is the Wiring Diagrams and Electrical troubleshooting Guide. These usually cover more than one year and are for domestic and international. They are very usefull as not only do they have the wiring diagrams, but they also have some very useful troubleshooting matrix's. The part number for my 95 , perhaps you could use this number to chase one down is 99948-96. Harley likes to keep this manual "Super Secret", because it does make electrical problems pretty simple. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 07:22 AM
  #29  
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Hi Jim,

I'm putting things back together now and will attempt that. The connector is over 20 years old, so fingers crossed!

The separate electrical manuals didn't come out until some years after my bike, and I have all the factory literature for my bike, electrics being part of my 1 1/2" thick tome! Be assured I have shaken the International electrics topic over here without success! I explained the 1990 scenario a few posts ago. I'll investigate the super one so thanks for that.

I have just about run out of enthusiasm and ideas on this now! Battery is off the bike, while I seek out other possibilities.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 12:43 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
I have just about run out of enthusiasm and ideas on this now! Battery is off the bike, while I seek out other possibilities.
May the force be with you.
 
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