We did a 106 ci using S&S cylinders Can not beat the price. Flowed the heads and chain drive as well as over sized valves and reworked the heads. The customer was a HDF Member. You need a Power Commander, dont leave that out as well as manual compression releases. YOu are also goi8ng to have to do something with your clutch.

Once you are all done you may wish to address this HD design flaw on your 2008 Street Glide LINK

It would suck buying a new wheel as well as pushing your bike home..

 

I'm going to a 107" with stage 2 heads on an '07 Dyna using my Woods 6. There seem to be quite a few 107"s here on the board with satisfied owners.

Do many of you guys have the crank reworked at the same time? I'd really like to avoid that and just do top end work. Hoping for 120ish on tq. and not that conerned about peak HP #s. I don't race or run high rpms regularly.

 

I think you are close to the danger zone with the 107 without considering locking the crank up. Might get away with it, if it's a good press fit, but you never can tell.
Ron

 

Yeah i got manual compression releases and a pro clutch intstalled with mine.

 

No crank work here thats the main reason i went 107. I said why go 103 when I can go 107. Plus they have been doing 107 for awhile and really havent heard of any issues. You guys will definately know from me becuase I dont ride gentle

 

+1 no crank work either -- If it was going to go it would have bit the dust by now

 

I've been making some calls and talking to people "in the know" concerning whether or not going to a 106/107 is a good idea without doing the crank. All of them agree that doing the crank is a really good dose of preventive medicine. My "issue" is that adding an S&S crank and doing it right is going to add roughly $2400 in parts and labor to the build. Basically making it hard for me to justify. Most of the guys on here are getting something in the 120/120 range out of their 107 builds. I'm figuring with cams, heads, roller rockers, adjustable pushrods, a good exhaust and a good tune I'm going to get just north of the 100/100 range for roughly half the cost of doing a full build (without the crank.) I'm not sure I can justify the added expense for the relatively marginal increase in HP and Torque. Someone tell me I am crazy.

 

No need to add S&S crank. Just send your off to Hoban/Darkhorse. It's a little less expensive. I haven't seen a 107" in the 120/120 range. Maybe 105/120-125ish. I just don't think you'll see that kind of hp from a 107". It's a crap shoot....Personally, I wouldn't pull the bottom end apart for a 107". If I split cases, I'm going to build a 117".......125/125

 

correct -- if you are going to split the cases might as well go 113/117/120/124 no sense in F'ing around with it. There have not been that many "documented" crank failures--this was a supposedly a big issue with the 07 model year -- however my 07 SG with HQs 103 105/115 and 22000 + miles never an issue with the motor.

 

Thanks guys. I'm one of those guys who if there is a 1 in 10000 chance that a part will fail, I'll be that one guy It's a running joke amongst my buddies and I.