107 inch?
 

I see there are quite a few guys here with the 107 engine and I plan on doing the stage 2 this Winter after riding season ends. I've seen the 96, 103, and 110 on Harley's website, but no 107. Are you getting the 107 after doing headwork/boring, or where is this displacement coming from? If you've got a 107, could you please explain why you decided on going that route and what it cost you? Also, what is the HP/TQ difference you got with the 107 over the 103? If it's numbers are good and the price is comparable I'd definitely consider it.

107" is the largest bore you can go without boring your cases. You don't see on HD's website, because they don't make a kit for it. Aftermarket is the way to go- GMR Performance, Head Quarters, Hillside, etc all do 107" kits. The cost is comparable to a 103" kit, and makes more hp/tq (if set up correctly). If I was starting back at square 1, I'd definitely go with a 107" over 103."

Add NRHS.
They and maybe others use Axtell Cilinders and JE forged pistons.
Dan at NRHS fitted the rings and the pistons into the cylinder for me for just a little more.
Very pleased.

Yep, most of the builders have 107's available, and most will either bore or have Axtell or Millenium cylinders available. Downside of the 110 is you gotta split the cases to bore them to accept the larger cyls. If you are going that far, you might as well go to a 113 or 117. Same amount of labor and near identical in cost .

yep 107 Hillside bores your existing cylinders and supplies the correct piston and rings.
give Scotty a call. 315-495-6650
quality you can trust

sedelux, thanks

the difference in cost of a 103 vs 107 is minimal; the difference in performance especially on the TQ side is night and day.

Don't forget the one important upgrade whichever way you go. Get the crank reworked, otherwise it's like building a house on a cardboard foundation. I'm somewhat forced to do the crank as it's on it's last legs. Everbody has their own reasons for what engine they want or think they need. Early on I thought the 113 was where I was headed but since that my mind has changed. Decided on the 107 for these reasons. I have the cyls already, they are seasoned and good candidates for rebore and will be stable with heat. Headquarters will be doing the heads to wake them up. Decided against the timkin conversion since the max power that the 107 could make is well within the design of the improved SE straight roller. This way my cases won't need to leave my property since no case boring or timkin conversion is really needed. This statement will drive many engine builders nuts, because it's become the standard for most builds. This is a substantial cost savings to me by not doing needless work for my intended application. The other benifit to me is I can retain modern O ring sealing on the cyl bases with the 107. Try as I may, I can't stomach base gaskets. They work, but not for me.:icon_shrug:
Done right, the 107 well tuned with a good 2-1 Supertrap will deliver #s that are very impressive. That's my choice at the moment and reasons for doing so.
Ron

Very well put Ron. You make a good case for anyone doing a build to think it through properly before going to a shop and just handing over a fistfull of dollars.

Yeah I just finished my 107 build. I used axtell there stuff is really nice.

What kind of numbers are you guys seeing out of your 107 builds?

I got 97hp/125tq out of mine. Real happy with the torque. I'm runnind dual exhiast too. I know alot of people are using bored out jugs with good reports. I have not heard of a bad 107 yet. Axtell uses there own stuff and make an over square desighn for their 107 I think that what it's called. I think hq is a little cheaper in price.

That's pretty impressive. I have V&H staggered short shots on my bike right now and am expecting to have to replace them as part of the build.

Hey Jack- what cams are you using in your 107? The tq you're making is VERY impressive, but I would've thought your hp would've been higher.....

110 HP/122 Ft/lb Torque

I'm using s&s 585 cams. Stock heads reworked,yeah thought hp was goimg to be higher
We I started build I was hoping for 105/120 so I'm close. I did tell them I wanted tq.
My peak tq hits about 3000. I'm happy though but they are just #'s

I don't know my nubers bike has never been on a dyno -- I have the auto tuner from HQs -- I can easily do wheelies and rolling burnouts it is a lot faster that my 07 SG with a HQs 103 (sold)

I like your #'s. You can't go wrong with hq

A wise man once said "you can't ride a dyno chart." But it at least gives me some basis for comparison to the 103 build I was thinking about. Thanks guys.

I agree- they are just #s.

Amen to that!

Just did one this week for one of our members
 

We did a 106 ci using S&S cylinders Can not beat the price. Flowed the heads and chain drive as well as over sized valves and reworked the heads. The customer was a HDF Member. You need a Power Commander, dont leave that out as well as manual compression releases. YOu are also goi8ng to have to do something with your clutch.

Once you are all done you may wish to address this HD design flaw on your 2008 Street Glide LINK

It would suck buying a new wheel as well as pushing your bike home..

I'm going to a 107" with stage 2 heads on an '07 Dyna using my Woods 6. There seem to be quite a few 107"s here on the board with satisfied owners.

Do many of you guys have the crank reworked at the same time? I'd really like to avoid that and just do top end work. Hoping for 120ish on tq. and not that conerned about peak HP #s. I don't race or run high rpms regularly.

I think you are close to the danger zone with the 107 without considering locking the crank up. Might get away with it, if it's a good press fit, but you never can tell.
Ron

Yeah i got manual compression releases and a pro clutch intstalled with mine.

No crank work here thats the main reason i went 107. I said why go 103 when I can go 107. Plus they have been doing 107 for awhile and really havent heard of any issues. You guys will definately know from me becuase I dont ride gentle:icon_lol:

+1 no crank work either -- If it was going to go it would have bit the dust by now

I've been making some calls and talking to people "in the know" concerning whether or not going to a 106/107 is a good idea without doing the crank. All of them agree that doing the crank is a really good dose of preventive medicine. My "issue" is that adding an S&S crank and doing it right is going to add roughly $2400 in parts and labor to the build. Basically making it hard for me to justify. Most of the guys on here are getting something in the 120/120 range out of their 107 builds. I'm figuring with cams, heads, roller rockers, adjustable pushrods, a good exhaust and a good tune I'm going to get just north of the 100/100 range for roughly half the cost of doing a full build (without the crank.) I'm not sure I can justify the added expense for the relatively marginal increase in HP and Torque. Someone tell me I am crazy.

No need to add S&S crank. Just send your off to Hoban/Darkhorse. It's a little less expensive. I haven't seen a 107" in the 120/120 range. Maybe 105/120-125ish. I just don't think you'll see that kind of hp from a 107". It's a crap shoot....Personally, I wouldn't pull the bottom end apart for a 107". If I split cases, I'm going to build a 117".......125/125

correct -- if you are going to split the cases might as well go 113/117/120/124 no sense in F'ing around with it. There have not been that many "documented" crank failures--this was a supposedly a big issue with the 07 model year -- however my 07 SG with HQs 103 105/115 and 22000 + miles never an issue with the motor.

Thanks guys. I'm one of those guys who if there is a 1 in 10000 chance that a part will fail, I'll be that one guy :D It's a running joke amongst my buddies and I.

+++++ you know that 117 will be nothing short of amazing even with low compression. The 107 kit is a great way to make power on a budget.

That is really what I would like to hear. I don't want to split cases and spend 2 grand on bottom end work. I don't hammer this bike and would likely never run it over 5,500 rpm.

The cranks have known problems, but it is not widespread. If it was me, I would build the 107 or 103 without the crank work, and watch it for issues, such as noise, oil pressure drop etc. If you twist a crank, usually it is not death and destruction immediately to the engine, but gives you warning signs. At that point, then tear it down and put a good crank in it if it ever comes to that.

My little 103" makes 98/109, and I'm not worried about the crank...LOL. Steve (HDWRENCH) and I have been talking about the 117", and it may be in the works for next winter. I asked him about bumping up to a 107", and his opinion was "103 to 107 would be like pissing up a rope." Very professional- didn't try to sell me a $600 set up that was going to net me an extra 4/4.

As many know we build a a large amount of these stroker engines a year. And with the 107 being able to produce great power, using a stock crank in a 117 however is treading on thin ice with a stock crank. A low compression 117 for street use is a killer set up. It will not set any dyno records. However a 9.8.1 117 with a mild andrews cam stock t/b simple CNC porting will make tq in the 130+ range. For a normal street engine that is a mild set that lays down some of the best usable power that you will come across.

107 kits even mild sets are making great power and compared to stock are massive a increase. keep in mind that you do not have to build a high lift cam roller rocker, high compression engine to have fun and make good power, Dalton nailed it. Keep track of the engine, pay attention!!!! Plenty of great running 103 or 107s out there. If you are going to make the move then go 107 if you have a 103 stay with that and improve upon it. Dyno sheets are a starting point to look at however the new gearing in the 07+ bikes makes comparing them to a earlier bike harder. Add the gearing plus FBW bikes olny complicates the issue. The FBW bikes are not producing the power we have seen from NON FBW. Even so a 103 or 107 making 115 TQ is a fun daily rider. Take care. Beau give me a call would you.

So now that all the subject matter experts are paying attention to this thread, let me go off topic (sort of) and pose this question. Assuming I build a 107. I know to get the most out of it Im going to have to ditch the V&H short shots I have on and go with a grown up 2 into 1 system. And I know one of the best systems out there is the D&D. Problem is, and no offense guys, I hate the looks of the blacked out version and chrome isnt an option. How much do you guys think I will be giving up by going with a Rhinehart 2 into 1 instead? Noticeable or should I do what I want and not worry about it?

here is a 107 with a woods 6-6 compression was 10.1 stock t/b CNC heads with the pipe you are speaking of on a softail. I have only dyno'd two bikes with this pipe both where softails. But you can take a look and see what it has. The head pipe is rather large and I feel would work great on a larger engine. Even with that tq dip the bikes runs great. 5th gear pull and 6th gear pull listed there. It gives you some what of a idea of what you can look for in a NON FBW set up.

Thanks Steve. That is exactly what I was looking for but couldn't find any place.

You are welcome. I have to say the peak tq numbers with that pipe where impressive. THe overall curve not as good as others but in the end comparing stock to built very nice increase. That bike was tuned using the TTS and V tune. Reason for lesser amount of runs. As you are not sampling the V tune runs. Overall the lady that owns the bikes loves it as well she had picked out the pipe before we did the build. I did a search as well looking for other dyno sheets with this pipe and could not locate a 103/107 with it.

nice curve on that dyno Steve, gives up a little on the bottom, but the midrange is big and FAT!