$300 diff is a no brainer, go with the S&S, plus S&S has bene around longer than most motorcycle mfg'ers. Unless it matters to you that you say "my d$%k, er, I mean my bike is a 107" and yours is a 106", then go with the S&S...1" is not going ot make any difference. Depending on what else you add, cams tuning heads, etc... engine size isn't going to determine if your bike is faster than another just because it's got more cubic inches.

 

I got Axtell 107 from NRHS. Actually a 106.56 CI.

 

Spigot wall thickness, which is the thinnest point, is EXACTLY the same diameter, and the price is NOT a wash, as we supply a complete engine gasket kit, and the rings are attended to, for ease of client install.
The OE cylinders have been being bored by many shop across the nation, and there has not been any issues.

 

I got Axtell 97" from Don Dorfman (Head Designs by Dewey) Actually 96.99.

 

For what it's worth.Rev cylinders have no liner they are bored than nickel/sil. plated.Been on a tour through they're shop.You would be amazed of the amount of motors and cylinders that go through there.They do the nickel /sil plating on all the Victory bikes.They were doing some work on a motor out of one of Jack Roushes airplanes when I was there.

 

I appreciate all the responses. I recently bought a set of heads and I'm going to have them re-worked. The two things holding me up on tearing into my motor is deciding which kit I want, and which cam will best compliment my riding style.

I have been staring at dyno sheets for weeks looking at all the different curves. I think when it's all said and done, I'm going to go with the S&S kit and their .283 cam. I'm still up in the air on the cam, because I do like a few of the Woods cams as well. We'll see.

 

Very good point, as the cast aluminum spigot, does not have a fraction of the tensile strength as a cast iron unit, and have never heard of one coming unglued. Reason is, there is hardly any load on the cylinder in that area.
Look at Iron XL strokers from years ago, with notched spigots for clearence for the rods on the 4 5/8", 4 1/2" wheel sets, and usually bored .030"-.050". Spigots were thinner yet, and no issues either, even with the increased thrust face loads, going deeper yet into the cylinder.
Any shop that has use of boring equipment, can bore/hone the OE, T/C cylinder to 3.934", knowing that there will not be any issues whatsoever.
Scott

 

I never said the spigot thickness was an issue and as you well know the spigot thickness is of very little importance in overall strength and stability, measure the spigot on a set of Axtel 4 1/8 bore cylinders sometime. The S&S kits also come with gaskets but you knew that as well also. And the original poster stated he can get them for 6 bills.
Like I said in my first post, I have ran the stock overbored with no issues and have also installed the 106 S&S kits, no comparison in liner thickness and liner thickness can be directly linked to stability during high temp operatin and over a long period of time and thousands of miles. I want the most I can get for my money and for value the S&S kits just plain beat the stock overbored.
Not sure why I was quoted concerning the Nikasil in this thread, I have never used them nor have any plans of ever doing so.
If I had to bore stock cylinders I would definitely use the piston that CP offers as it has a much broader skirt and better stability in the bore than the Wiseco, not that the Wiseco cant do the job I just feel the CP's are better, and available from Hyperformance or GMR as well as many other vendors.

 

S&S's kit comes with .045" cylinder head gasket(ouch), Viton cylinder base "O" rings, and tapered exhaust gaskets, only.
Our's is a COMPLETE Cometic engine gasket, .030" head gasket,(much better squish) with everthing needed to accomodate a top-end swap over, again to ease the installation.
Along with that, the rings are professionally gapped, in the existing bore, and are set in perfectly square, via an aluminum plug guage, that we manufactured(we have them for all bore sizes we work with, with an interchangeable handle) in one chucking, that butt's flush to the cylinder's head gasket surface. This insure's that VERY accurate measurement is then established, when checking the gap. Using the piston for that, does not cut the mustard.
S&S's internet team, is looking into the sub-standard, de-valued product-pricing, of the #106-3760 kit.
Scott

 

S&S's internet team, is looking into the sub-standard, de-valued product-pricing, of the #106-3760 kit.

I know what dealer cost is and some of the prices I have seen them sold for by bigger parts suppliers is hard to believe. They aren't giving themselves much if any margin. Should be easy for S&S to figure out as they are the supplier to some of these bigger vendors that are offering them cheap. A whole team though huh?