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Timken Bearing, Crank durability vs HP level?

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  #11  
Old 08-18-2011, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by boogaloodude
The general consensus opinion is that the stock crank and bearings should be good to about 120 ft lbs. Some guys will say that's too much power, and others will say you can build beyond that, but as a general statement, keep it under 120 ft lbs and you're relatively safe.




It's doable to hit 100 hp with stock heads and throttle body, but to get beyond that takes a little more work and planning. 90 hp is easy, 100 hp is harder, 110 hp is a bunch harder. It's almost an exponential curve once you start nearing the practical limits of stock equipment.
If you've ever tried to make horsepower with anything the early gains are fairly easy and cheaper, after that it's a never ending parade of an empty wallet and a full trash can of broken parts. Any one that expects this to be any different is fooling themselves no matter what anyone tells you.
 
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Old 08-18-2011, 05:51 PM
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Also remember by welding a crank you are insuring that if something does go wrong, the crank goes in the garbage. There is no repairing them after that! I'd rather have a plugged crank pin without the welding.
 
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:03 PM
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To the OP's point, there are a bunch of threads ( as we all know,) regarding scissored cranks on little more than stock bikes reported here. I think that's why the concern about building at all on that foundation.

They apparently break with not much 'provocation' sometimes.
 
  #14  
Old 08-18-2011, 07:19 PM
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So let me get this right, You want to build your stock 96" motor up to 110-120 hp/tq and not do anything to the bottom end? If that's what you are talking about I think you are asking for trouble.
 
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Old 08-18-2011, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by grbrown
There are no unanswered questions on the 120R that I have seen. We haven't had any reports of failures on them, only wide grins at the performance they give.

There is no warranty on those engines because the factory cannot sell an engine that does not comply with all the noise and exhaust emissions regulations. You should buy one now, before they are discontinued!
As long as the are sold as "Race Only" the MoCo will continue to sell them, no danger of being discontinued. They are now available for the earlier softails and touring models.

I am looking real hard at dropping one in my '05 Deuce next year. Anybody want to buy a solid 95" B motor with Big Boyz heads, gear drive TW44G cams, Python 3 2:1, oil cooler, AIM VPC, Mustang Solo seat, SE180 rear tire (getting a little thin in the center), Ness Lo Fly bars, extended forward controls, less than 20K miles, 190psi cranking compression both cylinders, does not use a drop of oil and has never puked oil out the air cleaner (breather vented to the atmosphere), SERT tuned, 104HP/94TQ?
 
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Old 08-18-2011, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BLKBAGGER
So let me get this right, You want to build your stock 96" motor up to 110-120 hp/tq and not do anything to the bottom end? If that's what you are talking about I think you are asking for trouble.
If the crank is true to begin with, I think the OP will be fine as long as he does not beat on the motor. Just not worth the initial capital investment; wait until it breaks and then fix it.
 
  #17  
Old 08-18-2011, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by djl
If the crank is true to begin with, I think the OP will be fine as long as he does not beat on the motor. Just not worth the initial capital investment; wait until it breaks and then fix it.
Who wants to build a nice motor and not beat on it? Not me.
 
  #18  
Old 08-19-2011, 04:55 AM
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Example;
Before the Timken up-graded kits were available, we built 2, 116" S&S kits.
Not assembled and gone, but optimize compression, and enhanced the cfm in the heads, along with the proper t/body. on the one, and carb mods on the other.
BOTH bike are still in service to date, and the carbed bike rolled 140/140 at R.A.W Motorsports, Swansea Mass.
No issues whatsoever.
Scott
 
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Old 08-19-2011, 06:35 AM
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Thanks for the feedback all, I appreciate it.

The big reason I don't want to get into the bottom end is down time, I figure I can do the top end in about 2 days and be riding again. Then this winter mebbe I'll pull it down the rest of the way and do a crank.

But for now, Ive decided to go with the fuel moto 107 kit and maybe heads. This'll put me right where I want to be (I already have a HPI throttle body, which I bought for this build when I was looking at a more radical combo )

Im not an abusive rider, I just like tons of roll-on torque (who doesn't ) and with as may motors as Scott has done at this level or higher, and fuel moto as well, Id say IM plenty safe for the rest of the season, at the very least

Thanks Jamie for your help and thanks to Scott for your willingness to share your experience on this board.

 
  #20  
Old 08-19-2011, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by grbrown
There are no unanswered questions on the 120R that I have seen. We haven't had any reports of failures on them, only wide grins at the performance they give.

There is no warranty on those engines because the factory cannot sell an engine that does not comply with all the noise and exhaust emissions regulations. You should buy one now, before they are discontinued!
The engines are still new,& not to many people have them.When the miles start adding up ,on those that have them,then we will see how good they are.
 


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