Hello forum.

I have many questions but will try to keep this thread down to a minimum.

1. I’ve had the bike running twice for 5 seconds then 10 seconds now. The oil tank drains into the motor so damn was there some spewing and spitting. I’ll address the leak down issue but for now should I just drain the case, add it back to the tank and try starting the bike again? I’ll starting the bike with all the oil in the case hurt anything? Other than the mess. The drain plug is on the left lower case, right? 9/16 wrench, right? And yes I’ll be careful not to over tighten.


2. Starting. I have the original motor manual and am following the instructions but any other tips? Low speed needle is 4 turns out and high is 2 out. It seems the bike hasn’t had fuel in it since it was restored years ago because the inside of the tank is mint, like it was dipped before being painted. Do these carbs normally leak? Or bad dripping but wet around the bowl. I’m hoping the seals will swell and cure that.

3. How do I open the tool box? I see the round thing in the middle with the 2 holes in it. Holes are up ad down and I’m assuming they need to be side to side.

Thank to any help,
Chris

 

1- I wouldn't drain the oil from the cases, asking for problems. Oil tank has a drain plug, lower right side of tank near the front. Add fresh oil to the tank and see where it takes you. She is going to sump, spit and blow oil all over the place, how much is based on how long she was sitting. Bring her outside, big pan underneath. You need to run the motor for a while to get everything leveled out. Once you warm the motor up you can feel the return oil line got hot, you can also take off the oil cap and see smoke and the oil return to the tank. if all of that happens, you are in good shape.

2- Carb should not leak or sweat. I would drop the bowl, install a new Rubber Ducky float, adjust per the manual, new bowl gasket and try again. If she still has the original solid fuel line, I like a little Teflon tape to keep everything from leaking. Clean the fuel filter.

2A- I do not bother retarding the timing on my bike to start, maybe for your bike a little, but never go full retard!!!

3- Yeh you need a little two prong key to rotate.

Good luck, we like pics.

 

Thanks Architect. I really wanted to see how much oil was in the case so I did pull the plug. Only about a half gallon to my surprise. Filled the tank to the proper level an started the bike. Very little smoke and no spewing of oil. Checked the oil tank this morning and no drainage out of the tank so far. Good news.

I had it running for a good 10 minutes. Oil returns fine back into the tank. Was trying to get the idle speed adjusted and it died. Tried to restart but my right leg by then was toast. So far so good though.

 

set the idle at 3 out as well as the main

picture the carb you could have a filter on it

you need to consider have it set by a shop while they are very forgiving you can hurt it then the cost is triple

join a local AMCA chapter go to a meeting ask who owns one very possible you will get some real help getting it up to speed

 

I don’t know what the heck type of filter housing this is but there is no filter inside

 

Unscrew the bottom, there should be a copper like mesh screen that goes up into the housing. Colony sells replacements, you want something in there for sure.

PS that does not look like a 45 if it is the bike we are discussing. Looks Big Twin flathead from way over here.

 

That thing is as old as Keith Richards, wait Keith is older...

 

it appears to be a pre war maybe 1940 big twin 74 flat head as per the green

 

The serial number on the case is 45 U ####

And it is titled as a 45

 

I found a good video on YouTube. Don’t know how to post the link but the title is 1945 H-D “Big Twin”

I really don’t know the differences between all the models but it is for sure 45 U