You are going to need a vice to hold the tubes or a friend, #26 is holding the spring pressure. Not too bad of a pop on the way off, just be ready for it so you do not launch parts across the shop. On can be a pain fighting the spring and trying to get the nut started, again a friend is helpful.

The drain screws usually need a vice grip for removal, I just buy them at the dealership 10 at a time, they are cheap. J&P sells fancy chrome ones that use an allen wrench, very re-usable that way.

Towel on the gas tank as well, good luck.

 

Thank you 👍

 

I'm getting ready to do this with Progressive springs and ***** Shiny Chrome legs, bought a used 49mm triple tree off eBay for $35 to use as the clamp, I'll be watching this one.... I have rebuilt legs before, not hard at all.

 

Many posts speak about removing the fork tubes from the triple trees as a part of upgrading using Progressive drop in springs.
I am looking at the box of springs and reading the Progressive installation sheet.
Unless there is something physically in the way of the fork caps removing any part of the fork tube is not required.
It's exactly the same work I did on my 03 Sportster.
Let me add there is a level of caution required by lifting the front wheel so not to have a fork nut sandwich but it's all on the installation sheet.
on the other hand my buddy's RK has a lot that needs removal....necelle, headlight housing and speakers. My Softail is very simple......to be continued

 

Agreed... since you are only going to remove the cap, pull the stock spring out and put the cap back on, should be quick and easy.

Depending on your mile's you might consider new fork oil

I'm putting on new chromed forks and will buy a rebuild/seal kit, so I'll do mine using a vise and used triple street, + new fluid, so essentially a fork rebuild at 30k miles

 

The previous owner had Harley install tires and fork oil the week I picked the bike up 2 years ago but new BelRay 15w will definitely go in.
I commend you doing the fork work, I wasn't sure I had the experience to do that. I took the safe way and polished the aluminum forks. Good luck with your upgrade

 

For reinstalling:
Before I put the spring in, I put the cap on, turn it backwards/counterclockwise GENTLY until the threads on the cap and in the tube fall together. You'll feel/hear it.
Mark the cap and the tube at that spot.
When installing the cap with the spring installed, have the mark on the cap turned 1/4 turn CCW/90° or so from the mark on the tube.
This will help some in getting the threads started without mindlessly turning the cap under spring pressure trying to get the cap threads to start in the tube.
YRMV.

 

Thanks for the tip, definitely will use that

 

The Sportster and 2000 FLSTC are different, but you'll figure that out in due time

 

what would those differences be? I am here to learn