best battery?
#12
My mech. gets batteries that are dry and come with the fluids that he adds when the battery is purchased. That way the battery is new and not one that has been sitting on a shelf.
#13
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lafayette, Louisiana
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AGM type batteries are the way to go.
If your 2012 bike is already in need of a new battery, you might want to check your bike out since it should last a lot longer than that.
Since a battery is something that is not replaced often, there is no reason to cheap out on it.
If your 2012 bike is already in need of a new battery, you might want to check your bike out since it should last a lot longer than that.
Since a battery is something that is not replaced often, there is no reason to cheap out on it.
#14
I went for a ride yesterday,38* when I left.Fresh off the tender and it barely turned over. The Idle was weird and didn't sound right when I tried starting after a half hour or so. After 1 1/2 hrs it sounded ok. I would prefer to buy a battery b/4 I get stranded in the wilds of E.TN,with no cell svc. The tender will increase your chances of stranding by starting out with a fresh charge ,that may be the last start left in it.
After some research I bought a Yuasa,High performance,made in US, GYZ-20HL.$103 delvd.,from Amazon. Money well spent.
Last edited by rideflhr; 12-27-2014 at 12:40 PM.
#16
AGM has very low internal resistance, is capable to deliver high currents on demand and offers a relatively long service life, even when deep-cycled. AGM is maintenance free, provides good electrical reliability and is lighter than the flooded lead acid type. It stands up well to low temperatures and has a low self-discharge. The leading advantages are a charge that is up to five times faster than the flooded version, and the ability to deep cycle. AGM offers a depth-of-discharge of 80 percent; the flooded, on the other hand, is specified at 50 percent DoD to attain the same cycle life. The negatives are slightly lower specific energy and higher manufacturing costs that the flooded. AGM has a sweet spot in midsize packs from 30 to 100Ah and is less suitable for large UPS system.
AGM batteries are commonly built to size and are found in high-end vehicles to run power-hungry accessories such as heated seats, steering wheels, mirrors and windshields. NASCAR and other auto racing leagues choose AGM products because they are vibration resistant. AGM is the preferred battery for upscale motorcycles. Being sealed, AGM reduces acid spilling in an accident, lowers the weight for the same performance and allows installation at odd angles. Because of good performance at cold temperatures, AGM batteries are also used for marine, motor home and robotic applications.
AGM batteries are commonly built to size and are found in high-end vehicles to run power-hungry accessories such as heated seats, steering wheels, mirrors and windshields. NASCAR and other auto racing leagues choose AGM products because they are vibration resistant. AGM is the preferred battery for upscale motorcycles. Being sealed, AGM reduces acid spilling in an accident, lowers the weight for the same performance and allows installation at odd angles. Because of good performance at cold temperatures, AGM batteries are also used for marine, motor home and robotic applications.
Last edited by skratch; 12-27-2014 at 01:26 PM.
#17
I have had lots of HDs and 3 yrs seems to be the norm.I use batty tenders on 3 cars,Hd,4 wheeler, mower,etc. I guess it helps.
I went for a ride yesterday,38* when I left.Fresh off the tender and it barely turned over. The Idle was weird and didn't sound right when I tried starting after a half hour or so. After 1 1/2 hrs it sounded ok. I would prefer to buy a battery b/4 I get stranded in the wilds of E.TN,with no cell svc. The tender will increase your chances of stranding by starting out with a fresh charge ,that may be the last start left in it.
After some research I bought a Yuasa,High performance,made in US, GYZ-20HL.$103 delvd.,from Amazon. Money well spent.
I went for a ride yesterday,38* when I left.Fresh off the tender and it barely turned over. The Idle was weird and didn't sound right when I tried starting after a half hour or so. After 1 1/2 hrs it sounded ok. I would prefer to buy a battery b/4 I get stranded in the wilds of E.TN,with no cell svc. The tender will increase your chances of stranding by starting out with a fresh charge ,that may be the last start left in it.
After some research I bought a Yuasa,High performance,made in US, GYZ-20HL.$103 delvd.,from Amazon. Money well spent.
I would have suspected the battery if it wasn't for the fact that it charged with the bike running.
The Yuasa batteries are good.
#18
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Al Bu Ker Key, New Mexico
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I have had good luck with Interstate, although I was forced to buy a Napa out on a trip in the middle of nowhere. Had to wait while they charged the damn thing. I thought all batteries were hot and ready to go these days. As someone posted, the key is upkeep/maintenance. Just keep them on a Tender and you will get extra years.
#19
I will chime in only to point out the HD batteries have superior posts compared to say NAPA and other brands.
I melted the post on a NAPA battery in my 03... low voltage issue, long crank time, but still the surface area of the NAPA posts, the hardware, and use of adapters didn't help.
The HD battery wasn't cheap, but but works.
AGM's are the next generation of technology... I know guys running them in their rice bikes, smaller, lighter, good CCA ratings.
I melted the post on a NAPA battery in my 03... low voltage issue, long crank time, but still the surface area of the NAPA posts, the hardware, and use of adapters didn't help.
The HD battery wasn't cheap, but but works.
AGM's are the next generation of technology... I know guys running them in their rice bikes, smaller, lighter, good CCA ratings.
#20
the battery in my 2002 sportster was agm.