Lift table owners - Quick'n'easy stools
#1
Lift table owners - Quick'n'easy stools
I'm sure I haven't invented anything that hasn't been made already, but thought I'd show it off... Having a 29" inseam makes it a bit challenging sometimes getting the scoots up on to the lift table. After nearly having my RG fall with me on it Sunday, I decided to do something before it happens. I just made two 11-1/2"W x 60"L x 6-1/2H boxes to put on either side of the table. Used 60" of a 4x8x5/8" sheet of ply, some liquid nails and screws. They're light, fit on top of the table when not in use and stronger than you'd ever need them to be.
My first HF table suddenly after over 2 years would no longer lift the RG, only the Heritage or WG... Sold it on CL for $150 and plan A was a pneumatic table, get a concrete saw and cut a hole in the 'shop' floor, flush mount it etc etc... Said'n'done I was gonna be north of $1000, HF revised their table, so WTF, give another one a try... Lifes all about how you handle Plan B
My first HF table suddenly after over 2 years would no longer lift the RG, only the Heritage or WG... Sold it on CL for $150 and plan A was a pneumatic table, get a concrete saw and cut a hole in the 'shop' floor, flush mount it etc etc... Said'n'done I was gonna be north of $1000, HF revised their table, so WTF, give another one a try... Lifes all about how you handle Plan B
#2
why didn't you just replace the bottle jack on your first HF table? Rule of thumb; after lifting, always install the lock rod, then relax the pressure from the bottle.
#3
I'm sure I haven't invented anything that hasn't been made already, but thought I'd show it off... Having a 29" inseam makes it a bit challenging sometimes getting the scoots up on to the lift table. After nearly having my RG fall with me on it Sunday, I decided to do something before it happens. I just made two 11-1/2"W x 60"L x 6-1/2H boxes to put on either side of the table. Used 60" of a 4x8x5/8" sheet of ply, some liquid nails and screws. They're light, fit on top of the table when not in use and stronger than you'd ever need them to be.
My first HF table suddenly after over 2 years would no longer lift the RG, only the Heritage or WG... Sold it on CL for $150 and plan A was a pneumatic table, get a concrete saw and cut a hole in the 'shop' floor, flush mount it etc etc... Said'n'done I was gonna be north of $1000, HF revised their table, so WTF, give another one a try... Lifes all about how you handle Plan B
My first HF table suddenly after over 2 years would no longer lift the RG, only the Heritage or WG... Sold it on CL for $150 and plan A was a pneumatic table, get a concrete saw and cut a hole in the 'shop' floor, flush mount it etc etc... Said'n'done I was gonna be north of $1000, HF revised their table, so WTF, give another one a try... Lifes all about how you handle Plan B
#4
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: On a hill among the hills, PA
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#5
They discontinued the model. Don't sell replacement jack for it, only the rebuild kit, which took 10 weeks minimum. I agree with you on the lock rod and do but now gingerly, read the reviews on the thing....
#7
I either push my bike (2013 Electra glide) up on the ramp or start it up and walk beside it and drive it up. I have a small wooden stool 18" x 20" that a place beside the ramp for the kickstand to rest on while I tighten the clamp.
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#9
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: On a hill among the hills, PA
Posts: 112,199
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Thanks... I had a friend bend them for me and I welded all the braces in... they work real nice...
#10
Great minds think alike! I saw your post yesterday while scrolling back a few pages.
BTW, I used the same chock for a while, then switched over to the HF version/copy of the Condor, a lot easier to use a jack under the front and spin the front wheel. Need to hack it off behind the hinge bolt and trim about 2" off the ends of the 1x2 stabilizer part.
BTW, I used the same chock for a while, then switched over to the HF version/copy of the Condor, a lot easier to use a jack under the front and spin the front wheel. Need to hack it off behind the hinge bolt and trim about 2" off the ends of the 1x2 stabilizer part.
Last edited by Afishinado; 01-10-2015 at 08:06 AM.