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My Indy told me about a little trick that worked great for me. Pump the lever until it firms up and while holding the lever depressed, wrap a bungee cord around the lever and grip to keep the lever from releasing pressure. Leave it like that over night. By doing this, all or most of the air bubbles will come to the surface of the reservoir. Might be worth a try.
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Front break lever all the way to grip
The reason I mentioned that the master cylinder might need to be rebuilt is because.....
When you are bleeding the brakes if anytime the lever gets pulled all the way to the grip where it touches the grip it could pull the piston further then it's supposed to travel and pop the internal seals out. I've seen that happen before. Buddy of mine had a similar issue to what your describing. Turns out when he bleed the brakes he was pulling the lever all the way till it touches the grip and the end result was we had to rebuild the master cylinder. |
I wonder if the OP has found his problem yet?
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Originally Posted by tx_jester
(Post 14209162)
you have this thread in two places, i responded to your other thread, not sure if you saw it or not.
Make sure the gap between the pads are the same on either side of the rotor......had a similar situation with a new wheel install on the front end of my street glide and it was slightly offset which caused a larger gap on one side between rotor and pad than the other. Had to shim the caliper over to correct it (the thickness of a flat washer). You can check it by prying both pads open on both sides of the rotor and see if the gap is the same or not when pads are fully opened and pistons fully depressed into the cylinders. |
Thanks for all the good intel, I took the left side caliper off and found that 2 of the pistons were froze. Checked the right side and everything was working fine. Am going to install a new caliper. Thanks again.
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