What am I doing wrong, can't go in a straight line!
#22
#24
When in stop/go traffic, traffic jams, whatever.....just creeping forward at speeds not fast enough to lift both feet off ground, for the life of me I can't keep the bike in a straight line. I end up doing a zig zag side to side. I don't know what its called and am having no luck finding any info.
I've done this on my '94 Wide Glide, '13 Ultra Classic, and now my '15 SGS over the last 20 yrs, so I'm discounting the bike as the culprit and blaming my riding skill, or lack of.
I watched tons of Daytona and Sturges videos and don't see anyone else doing this. What gives?
Thanks
I've done this on my '94 Wide Glide, '13 Ultra Classic, and now my '15 SGS over the last 20 yrs, so I'm discounting the bike as the culprit and blaming my riding skill, or lack of.
I watched tons of Daytona and Sturges videos and don't see anyone else doing this. What gives?
Thanks
#25
Could be a variety of factors - if you are unconsciously wobbling to keep the bike upright, you just don't have low speed balance down quite yet. The fact that you have your feet down when your bike is moving seems to indicate this may be what's happening. Could also be head bearing issue, or lack of confidence (again, probably subconscious).
Watch the video posted above, and practice, practice, practice.
Watch the video posted above, and practice, practice, practice.
#26
#27
First let me say I almost never do the waddle/ duck walk in traffic. If it is really heavy traffic I will allow a little space to open then go lifting my stabilizing foot and the stop, placing my foot down.
To me waddling forward is a good way to get your foot caught or have it slip on something oily. The result of which is laying your bike down because you were depending on your legs to walk the bike.
Second, pretty much what everyone else has said. Friction and practice.
To me waddling forward is a good way to get your foot caught or have it slip on something oily. The result of which is laying your bike down because you were depending on your legs to walk the bike.
Second, pretty much what everyone else has said. Friction and practice.
#28
No. 1st passion is powerboats. I'm a Fountain owner and my 1st Fountain had the US1 graphics. Easier to use same screen name everywhere.
When I state feet on the ground, I'm suggesting when in traffic such as traffic jams and you creep forward a few feet at a time. If I raised both feet off ground, I'd look like a yo -yo to drivers behind me. I do tend to look at vehicle right in front as was eariler mentioned. I'll try to look past and check my results. What I don't understand, as I stated in original post, watching the bike week videos and see tons of feet draggers not having any problem. Thus thinking the problem is between the seat and handlebars. Was behind a guy on a limited ultra in traffic and noticed he was same as I, feet down but going straight, while I'm sure he was watching me in his left mirror, then right, then left, etc.
Everyone appear to have same common suggestions, thus I'll try that and practice. Thanks!
When I state feet on the ground, I'm suggesting when in traffic such as traffic jams and you creep forward a few feet at a time. If I raised both feet off ground, I'd look like a yo -yo to drivers behind me. I do tend to look at vehicle right in front as was eariler mentioned. I'll try to look past and check my results. What I don't understand, as I stated in original post, watching the bike week videos and see tons of feet draggers not having any problem. Thus thinking the problem is between the seat and handlebars. Was behind a guy on a limited ultra in traffic and noticed he was same as I, feet down but going straight, while I'm sure he was watching me in his left mirror, then right, then left, etc.
Everyone appear to have same common suggestions, thus I'll try that and practice. Thanks!
Last edited by CVO SG; 10-06-2015 at 10:49 AM.
#29
As soon as the bike moves (and I mean as soon as it moves) bring your left foot up to the peg or the board. The right one should have never been on the ground.
Drag the rear brake while holding the clutch in the friction zone (not fully engaged or disengaged) while applying light, steady throttle (around 1200 rpm).
Look ahead and NOT down.
Squeeze the tank with both knees to help stabilize the bike.
Un-shrug your shoulders and unlock your elbows to eliminate unwanted steering inputs. The best way to do this is to pull your elbows in. This is also what you should be doing for braking as well.
As far as wearing out a clutch? I'd say I have 15K miles on my 2011 Road King in the friction zone. Even if it did wear out the clutch prematurely (which it doesn't), I'd still do it because knowing how to ride slow is the key to knowing how to really control the machine. It's either you control the machine or it's going to control you. I can watch a rider during slow speed and tell within 10 seconds who's in charge; the rider or the bike.
Drag the rear brake while holding the clutch in the friction zone (not fully engaged or disengaged) while applying light, steady throttle (around 1200 rpm).
Look ahead and NOT down.
Squeeze the tank with both knees to help stabilize the bike.
Un-shrug your shoulders and unlock your elbows to eliminate unwanted steering inputs. The best way to do this is to pull your elbows in. This is also what you should be doing for braking as well.
As far as wearing out a clutch? I'd say I have 15K miles on my 2011 Road King in the friction zone. Even if it did wear out the clutch prematurely (which it doesn't), I'd still do it because knowing how to ride slow is the key to knowing how to really control the machine. It's either you control the machine or it's going to control you. I can watch a rider during slow speed and tell within 10 seconds who's in charge; the rider or the bike.