I used to drive 20 miles to get it from a local dealer. They just opened up a new shop 1/2 mile away that carries all the types I use for the bike. Still have to order the car's stuff and have it shipped in though :-\


My selling point was talking to a fellow rider out here who builds some crazy machines. All he uses is redline in all 3 holes. I'm going to send out a sample to Blackstone when I change it next time to see how it compares to Syn3 and the Dino that the local dealer put in last time.

You don't need to remove the passenger floorboards to take off the derby cover.

depending on what type of passenger floorboard he has on his bike might require removal.
I use B&M trick shift ATF in my primary, but I like my clutch to grab and hook up when I let the clutch lever go.

Just did mine. The derby screws are #27 Torx, the passenger board bolt is 5/16 hex. Both of these are available in 3/8 drive from Auto Zone or O'Reilly. The trick is to push in towards the bolt while turning the ratchet. Use an extension that's long enough to keep the ratchet clear of everything. Granted, both of these are some of the worst metal I've ever seen in a fastener, but with, care shouldn't have a problem.

I put the fluid in with a funnel wedged in the inspection port, the trapezoid in the middle of the case. The primary wants a quart, so that's what I put in. No real need to pull the derby cover unless you need to adjust the clutch.

If the clutch feels OK, and works OK, I wouldn't mess with it. Lots of threads from guys having trouble with their clutch adjustment.

Might take the old screws and bolt in hand and go down to Ace Hardware and get some nice stainless hex ones, though. Mo betta next time ya work on it. Use a tad of anti-seize on stainless.

Thanks for all the input,guys. Yea; I have a hand held impact driver, but I just had them do it because I needed the steering head bearings greased anyway. No inspection port on '07 'cause it has the auto tensioner. Yes; on the '07 RoadKing Classic, you DO hafta remove the passenger board to get the derby off, because the 2 O'clock allen is right behind the board; unless they make a kind of Bondhus driver for it I don't know about; I ain't really THAT knowledgeable when it comes to tool availability.
The Syn 3 seems to be working nice, so I think I will try it for awhile; it seems that the cooler the clutch runs, the more pregressive the "feel". Also, the consensus seems to be it is better for the comp (SE in my bike).

Am I missing something? Since when do you need to remove your floorboards to change primary fluid? All you need to do to change primary fluid is to remove the drain plug at the bottom of the primary cover to drain the old stuff and the clutch inspection cover to fill it.

PASSENGER floor boards. Read Dickeys post right above yours.

When I replaced clutch in the Sportster, Energy One recommended B&M Trick shift. I used that and I used type F auto trans fluid. They said they had experienced clutch issues with syn3....too slippery! they said it was a good oil, but not so good for all clutches. I didn't have any B&M so I used the formula +. thinking I'm going with the B&M on this one....