Question regarding primary fluid
 

I just finished doing the 10K mile service on my RoadKing. I do most everything myself, except for the 2 or 3 things I don't have the tools for. One of them is changing the primary fluid, 'cause my compressor ain't powerful enough for air tools, and I don't wanna strip the passenger footboard & derby cover allens, so I take it to my dealer for primary fluid change.
When I got home & looked at my receipt, I noticed they made a mistake & put Syn3 in my primary instead of formula=+ which I requested. I called them & they said I could bring it back & they would replace it with Formula+, but I had been wanting to try something different in my primary, to try & eliminate the hot clutch "grabbiness" that has plagued all of my Harleys, so I said I would try it out & see if I liked it before bringing it back. I have noticed that IN GENERAL the clutch is much more progressive & less grabby when it is cold, and it seems that the Syn3 is making it run slightly cooler, which is what they said it would do, and it does indeed seem less "grabby" when hot.
What are your thoughts on Syn3 in the primary VS. Formula+?

What year is the bike? Older models, the MoCo recommended Syn3, although lots of riders didn't.

A lot of guys, myself included, run ATF. I just changed mine, and found almost zero wear or particles on the magnetic plug.

Later models that are prone to compensator problems really want a high quality primary-special fluid.

By the way, I use an electric impact (mine's an old Makita) when I don't want to bother firing up the compressor for the air tools, might check into those.

There's also an impact DRIVER, looks like a heavy screwdriver and has a 1/2 inch drive on one end for tools and includes an adapter and screwdriver bits.

You set the driver bit in the screw, and hit the other end of the driver a stout whack with a good ball-peen. This will move stubborn screws even an air tool won't get. THe idea is the hammer blow drives the bit into the screw slots at the same time as the mechanism inside turns the bit.

Less than $20. We used to use them all the time in the shops. Less risk of damaging or stripping screws.

I have been running Syn3 for a very long time, I would guess the entire time I have had my 2005 RG (since new). When I first put it in my Evo I felt a noticeable drop in temperature. Plus it is easy to find at home and on the road.

Not sure what you are using the impact gun for to change the primary fluid. As asked before, what year is the bike? On allen head bolt removes the rear floor board, five torx bolts the derby cover and I think one smaller allen for the drain plug.

But things vary on different years so maybe you are up against something I am not familiar with.

I ran syn 3 in my 07 FLHT & now running HD Formula+ in my 11 FLTRX. Since it wasn't on the same bike I can't give any feed back. I'll be following the posts.

I will vouch for this tool. I just bought it to remove the stubborn fork slider allens. Worked great! $14.99 at Lowes

I have been running Mobil 1, would like to try ATF, any specific type I should use?

I ran Syn3 in all 3 for my '04 Road King's first 50K miles, and never had a problem. Now I run Mobil 1 V Twin. I tried Formula+ in my Primary but didn't like it because it felt too heavy and viscous. It made the clutch stick and drag when it was cold. I have also used Valvoline non-syn 10w40 motorcycle oil in the primary, and had no problems. The only reason I switched from Syn3 is that AutoZone is a lot closer than the nearest Harley dealer. If you like the way the clutch feels with Syn3, use it.

I inherited one of these from my grandfather (in-law). Between this tool and my 24" breaker bar I have yet to find a bolt/nut that refuses to budge.


Now as far as the primary fluid -- I just changed the fluid in all 3 holes to Redline (primary, gear and motor oil). The biggest change I've noticed is in my shifting. Clutch engagement feels smoother and the gear changes are crisper. Finding neutral is much easier as well.

My bikes seem to all shift better using Amsoil or Belray. My new SG did not easily shift into neutral until I switched it over to Amsoil. My wife also thinks her new Sporty shifts better after I switched it over when I did the 1k service. She is a new rider, so take that with a grain of salt. If you think Syn3 works good, I would stick with it.

I also don't use any air tools when removing floorboards or any of the covers.

I run Redline in one of my high HP cars, and my boat. I have always had good luck with it. I have to order it though, so more of a PITA. I might have to try it in the bike someday.