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  #21  
Old 09-02-2016, 01:42 AM
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I bet a lot depends on the specific dealer and demand. If they don't budge on the price you may find some flexibility with free accessories/gear/servicing/extended warranty.
 
  #22  
Old 09-02-2016, 01:43 AM
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The only bike I have ever paid MSRP for was my new CVO, but I got a bunch of stuff thrown in on the back end (discounted warranty, parts, free labor on add on's). My other bikes have been between 2-3k below MSRP. On the 17's though, I am not sure what to expect. They just came out and the dealers seem pretty proud of them. I would work the dealers in your area against each other. Tell them you are shopping all the local dealers, and see who is willing to give you the best price.
 
  #23  
Old 09-02-2016, 02:59 AM
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From what I have been told they are being told from Harley as of September first all
17s are to be sold at MSRP. They can offer in store credit but no price dropping. It will
affect the allotment system if they discount. I was told this from a GM yesterday.And he was told at dealer meetings. Its all about keeping profit margins high like the old days.
 
  #24  
Old 09-02-2016, 03:18 AM
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I would let the dealer know that if they won't sell you the bike for the MSRP price out the door, then you don't have a problem buying late model used, from a private seller. Many of the dealer fees are bullshit in my opinion. Im guessing that if you were to shop that offer around you'd find a hungry dealer that will bite. This offer should be for a cash deal. If you want to finance the bike with them then you should offer less as they will make a few on the finance.
 
  #25  
Old 09-02-2016, 05:58 AM
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Dealers don't care about outright sales. You'll get the same deal if you financed. Just the illusion of cash in hand gets the better deal.
 
  #26  
Old 09-02-2016, 06:07 AM
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Can't answer from experience, never bought a new bike from a dealer. But I'd say the dealerships will have the upper hand for the next...at least 6 months, on the new bubblehead powered bikes. All new engine, demand is high. They'll sell to whoever they can bend over the most...cuz the line is long.

If you want a '17 bubblehead RK now....be prepared to lube up and accept that.
 
  #27  
Old 09-02-2016, 08:50 AM
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I think I got a decent deal when I bought my '13 SG back in '13. First new bike in years, and I liked it. As I recall, I was right around MSRP including TT&L, plus I got a grand in store credit. Of course, the Rushmores came out a few months later...and they didn't deal that much on them the first 6 months or so, either.


I'm going to a semi-local dealer tomorrow to look at some '17s. I'm guessing I won't buy, because I don't see any wiggle room on the new ones. If - and this is a big if - IF the numbers work, I may bring one home - but I really don't think I can justify a trade on a brand new model.


But if there are any smokin' deals on a leftover '16 CVO or something...hmmmm...
 
  #28  
Old 09-02-2016, 08:57 AM
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My best advice would be to usually get the best deal possible is go near or at the end of the month. They are usually more willing to deal to make the next quota level. Most likely like it has been said already. Maybe a little too early for them to be willing to cut much on the price. Still would try the end of the month though
 
  #29  
Old 09-02-2016, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
Got a jones going for a 2017 RK and may be looking at one before the weekends out , yah !! Here's where I need help, I haven't set foot in a dealership in over 15 years and I've never bought a new bike so I need a little guidance on what kind of fee's and possible $$$ add-ons I may be dealing with during the haggling part of all this. Already been quoted MSRP on the color $19.4 with the OTD about 23K and maybe less for a outright sale no financing.

How does this sound to you more experienced buyers? Doing the numbers I'm seeing roughly a $1000 or so in there they are gonna use in fees and the offer counter offer game, curious what I'm in for.
I've made this recommendation to everyone that has posted a buy thread. Times have changed and it's a competitive marketplace. Put together a well written email, specifying exactly what you want to purchase and a deadline for their best offer out the door, by noon on Saturday. Blind copy everyone so that they know they are in competition, but don't know who they are competing against. Send it to at least 5 dealers. If you're not satisfied with the best offer that you receive, head to your local dealer with the best offer you were given in your pocket. At the very least you can keep them honest.

I ended up saving $4k off from what my local dealer offered me. Well worth the 120 mile ride to go get it. Good luck and I think you're going to love that new bike, even if it is a Twinkie!
 
  #30  
Old 09-02-2016, 09:22 AM
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Don't tell them you are paying outright, let them do the finance deal then whip out the checkbook dealers make money on the front end of a finance deal so it's easier to work a price.

Does CALI collect tag, title, and tax at the dealer at time of sale? and is that part of your total OTD figure of 23K? All dealers have a prep and document fee 1K sounds to be on par with an area with higher costs of living, here on average it's $400 dealer prep and $250 document fees.

MSRP is 18,999
colors other than vivid black add $450 to $2400 depending on what you choose.
ABS adds $795
Security adds $395

You can play with the different options and pricing here.

https://www.harley-davidson.com/cont...3-15-7-6-25-64

My advice is unless you have a burning need for a RK wait 6 months, dealers have a lot of leftover '16 stock they are trying to move so the incentive to discount a '17 is low right now, trust me I paid a premium to get the '16 RGU during the first week it was out. $28,500 OTD and then I had TT&L to do when I got home with it OK does not allow dealers to pay that for the buyer, plus I bought out of state so even if they did I would have still been on the hook when I git it home.
 


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