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What am I missing?? 117 build

  #11  
Old 11-01-2018, 10:29 AM
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You missed one very important step and that's what you're going to do with it when it's all done. I'll PM you my address
 
  #12  
Old 11-01-2018, 10:55 AM
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The RINGS as or more important than a ton of other crap,
as it is free Pwr with a LOT less heat.
There is NOT one reason to use old school high friction rings anymore.
I call standard drag 3-40 lb rings aunt Tillies.
They are junk.
I read where even car manufacturers have gone to low drag stuff and why not?
You asked for opinions -you have mine.
If you have the heads off you should be able to tell what kind of friction you have going on in there.
At this point it is real EZ to cure.
 
  #13  
Old 11-01-2018, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Tattooed Mick View Post
Hey all. Getting ready to complete my install and wanted to lean on the experience here to help me see what I have overlooked.

Bike started out as a 2014 Road King. Love this bike. Decided to convert it to a Street Glide when I found a screaming deal at an insurance auction. Frame was cracked and bent so they totaled it out. Everything else was 100%.
4015 miles on the bike. So I stripped all the good stuff and am selling whatever's left that I don't need.

Had the plastics and tank painted to match. Ran the FLHX wiring harness and began building the motor. Am going to swap the front end and bolt up the ABS pump and module. Touchscreen radio connected to the Wild Boar SG audio system already installed.

What I've done so far:
S&S 117 big bore kit
Darkhorse bottom end including:
  • Upgrade all bearings - Balance/Blueprint lower end and assemble complete
  • 4.375" stroke flywheel set 07-later
  • Centerless ground 1.6710" 2-hole crankpin
  • Darkhorse Rod-roller bearing Set .2164"
  • TC Competition H-beam Connecting Rod Set
  • Balance new crankshaft assembly
  • Darkhorse pro-plug
  • Weld crankpin
  • Race,Inr,R Main Brg,Pkgd,
  • Pinion Clip
  • Man O' War 4-3/8" Crankshaft
  • Assemble *Balanced & Bleprinted with Competition Rod
  • TWIN CAM TIMKEN BEARING CONVERSION UPGRADE A -MODEL
  • Case boring to 4.322" x 1.545" with step to 4.162 x 2.250"
  • HBR Main Timken Bearing
  • Bearing Roller
  • DH SPROCKET SHAFT SPACER
  • Motor Sprocket Shaft Seal
  • JET PISTON ASSY WITH O-RING
  • Cam Bearing 06 Dyna, 07-08BT
  • THRU-BOLT KIT TC BIG BORE CASES
  • Bearing Retaining Plate Screw

Revolution Performance Monster head package:
  • CNC port work
  • CNC valve job with guides and intake seats
  • New 2.000" intake valves
  • New 1.630" exhaust valves
  • New .675 max lift springs
  • New valve guide seals
  • TP Engineering Roller Rockers
S&S Gear Drive Cam kit with Andrews 67HG's
Feuling roller tappets
S&S adjustable pushrods
Evolution Industries compensator eliminator
Baker 1.5" oil pan
Baker Primary Chain Tensioner
Throttle Hog 58mm throttle body
Fueling 5.3 g/s injectors
Trask 58mm a.c.
D&D Boarzilla
Barnett Scorpion Lock-up Clutch & Basket

and that's it... so please, help me punch holes in this build. What am I forgetting?? What did I overlook??


 
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  #14  
Old 11-02-2018, 12:29 AM
Tattooed Mick
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Originally Posted by GaryLC View Post
I'd add an oil cooler if you don't already have one.
Already got an Ultra Cool for it. Good call
 
  #15  
Old 11-02-2018, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by assiniboine View Post
actually choked on my beer. That was outstanding
 
  #16  
Old 11-02-2018, 12:31 AM
Tattooed Mick
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Originally Posted by Kingglide549 View Post
The RINGS as or more important than a ton of other crap,
as it is free Pwr with a LOT less heat.
There is NOT one reason to use old school high friction rings anymore.
I call standard drag 3-40 lb rings aunt Tillies.
They are junk.
I read where even car manufacturers have gone to low drag stuff and why not?
You asked for opinions -you have mine.
If you have the heads off you should be able to tell what kind of friction you have going on in there.
At this point it is real EZ to cure.
unfortunately, engine is assembled and ready to drop in. Waiting for a call back on the rings. Not a big deal to pull em back off if need be.
 
  #17  
Old 11-02-2018, 01:05 AM
Tattooed Mick
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Originally Posted by Tattooed Mick View Post
Hey all. Getting ready to complete my install and wanted to lean on the experience here to help me see what I have overlooked.

Bike started out as a 2014 Road King. Love this bike. Decided to convert it to a Street Glide when I found a screaming deal at an insurance auction. Frame was cracked and bent so they totaled it out. Everything else was 100%.
4015 miles on the bike. So I stripped all the good stuff and am selling whatever's left that I don't need.

Had the plastics and tank painted to match. Ran the FLHX wiring harness and began building the motor. Am going to swap the front end and bolt up the ABS pump and module. Touchscreen radio connected to the Wild Boar SG audio system already installed.

What I've done so far:
S&S 117 big bore kit
Darkhorse bottom end including:
  • Upgrade all bearings - Balance/Blueprint lower end and assemble complete
  • 4.375" stroke flywheel set 07-later
  • Centerless ground 1.6710" 2-hole crankpin
  • Darkhorse Rod-roller bearing Set .2164"
  • TC Competition H-beam Connecting Rod Set
  • Balance new crankshaft assembly
  • Darkhorse pro-plug
  • Weld crankpin
  • Race,Inr,R Main Brg,Pkgd,
  • Pinion Clip
  • Man O' War 4-3/8" Crankshaft
  • Assemble *Balanced & Bleprinted with Competition Rod
  • TWIN CAM TIMKEN BEARING CONVERSION UPGRADE A -MODEL
  • Case boring to 4.322" x 1.545" with step to 4.162 x 2.250"
  • HBR Main Timken Bearing
  • Bearing Roller
  • DH SPROCKET SHAFT SPACER
  • Motor Sprocket Shaft Seal
  • JET PISTON ASSY WITH O-RING
  • Cam Bearing 06 Dyna, 07-08BT
  • THRU-BOLT KIT TC BIG BORE CASES
  • Bearing Retaining Plate Screw

Revolution Performance Monster head package:
  • CNC port work
  • CNC valve job with guides and intake seats
  • New 2.000" intake valves
  • New 1.630" exhaust valves
  • New .675 max lift springs
  • New valve guide seals
  • TP Engineering Roller Rockers
S&S Gear Drive Cam kit with Andrews 67HG's
Feuling roller tappets
S&S adjustable pushrods
Evolution Industries compensator eliminator
Baker 1.5" oil pan
Baker Primary Chain Tensioner
Throttle Hog 58mm throttle body
Fueling 5.3 g/s injectors
Trask 58mm a.c.
D&D Boarzilla
Barnett Scorpion Lock-up Clutch & Basket

and that's it... so please, help me punch holes in this build. What am I forgetting?? What did I overlook??

 
  #18  
Old 11-02-2018, 05:49 AM
joe40x
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Originally Posted by Tattooed Mick View Post
motor is already assembled but they are easily changed. Why you recommend the S&S tappets over Fueling?
Set them and forget them. Sort of like gear driven cams. Ask the long term, professional builders and see what they recommend. Look at any tappet noise oriented thread and see what the solution was.
 
  #19  
Old 11-02-2018, 06:00 AM
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Kingglide549
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You should ask for the engine Spec Sheet' so you know what they set the squish at, CC at, the everything at, What your actual CR is.
Piton weights,blah blah.
balance at (percentage where )
This will be NP if they do engines all the time.
I just dont trust most shops.
If they put in low drag rings the spec sheet will say what the pull is .
 
  #20  
Old 11-02-2018, 05:57 PM
Halojumper
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Originally Posted by assiniboine View Post
That looks like the Magic Eraser commercial
 

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