I have got to the point I don't even answer electrical questions much anymore.
The OP ask- but they don't want the answer.
And usually, it is so much simpler then what they are doing to solve it, right?

 

The manual states you should use 10/40 wt oil when temps the bike will be used in is under 40f. So there's an option.I ride all winter and don't have any slow starts until it gets down in the low 30's. That's with 20/50 wt in the motor and 15/40 in the primary. I always start it in neutral with the clutch pulled in, for less drag on the starter. Always starts, first try, just a tad slower. My bike is always on a tender when parked in the garage.,,

 

Cold weather is hard on batteries. The determining factor is 'Cold Cranking Amps'! That is what u pay for in a battery.

 

Na guys battery is good my old battery was soild and just because it was old I bought a new one... Been riding with new battery for weeks.. Morning starts have been getting worse and worse and even when it's in the 60s...New battery was tested as well and no problem i checked everything but the cables and I will today. The starter just is robbing Alot of power to turn over and it's slowly getting worse sounds to me like bad winding in the starter.. I was hoping for tips and I got. Some great ones thanks. Going to use jumpers to test the wires and if not time for starter.... Next question is finding a starter I see starters for 100$ on Amazon I no Amazon scary.. Harley wants 500$

 

As long as the starter isn't physically damaged or worn, it might just need some new brushes for the armature. You can take it out and bring it to a starter repair joint. They should be able to test and fix it easily, if you hand it to them. Gotta be alot cheaper then replacing the whole starter.,,,

 

I just posted this in another thread ... a rebuild is not "rocket science" ... Give it a try

https://www.google.com/search?q=harl...hrome&ie=UTF-8

 

I'm lazy enough that I prefer to do the easy (to my way of thinking) checks first. Some guys prefer to read the suggestions, and start with checking what they suspect first. It's their time, and their money if they start replacing parts.

OP, if you said, I missed what the voltage is when cranking. It's been mentioned here that that's the only battery test that counts. FWIW, the last battery I replaced "tested" fine, but a new battery was what I needed.

BTW, it helps the helpers here if you mention what you find, i.e., data, not just conclusions.

 

Trouble is OP
you have a problem and trying to guess your way though.
Go buy an induction amp gauge and you willl see WTH is going on,
AFTER you look at the crank voltage as I posted near the top.
I did say crank voltage not surface voltage

 

If you are in neutral, why also pull in the clutch?

 

This is a normal way to do it, and should be done so as not to be turning over the gears in the transmission and fighting clutch drag.