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The Best Method To Tie Down Your Motorcycle?

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  #21  
Old 01-10-2019, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by LJLKRL05
I bought a pair of "tank straps" and a harbor freight wheel chock, similar to a condor, and use this guy's method to tie it down. Towed my 2018 electraglide ultra classic 1200 miles round trip like this on my utility trailer and the bike never moved. It felt solid with the trailer, but the suspension was able to absorb any bumps in the road.
I did add one strap to each rear floorboard just to keep the rear end from moving.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1800-l...ock-61670.html
https://www.amazon.com/Tank-Straps-M.../dp/B0798SSQJD

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vh5zO1__oNc
Yep with one exception.
For short trips that may be all you need. But if you are going longer or perhaps interstate freeways at higher speeds you may want to secure the rear as well to prevent it from bouncing and moving side to side. Some will use 2 additional straps one on each side. Personally, I use 1. I hook it on one side, pass it through the rear wheel and secure it to the other side. Tightened enough such that the wheel is held to the deck.

Basically the answer depends on the trailer. If you are asking so that you can set up your trailer and bike then many have provided good answers. but in real life you might be loading a bike (yours or not) on a strange trailer. That means different options.

The above picture shows clearly the best method. First, not on the side stand. You want to get a strap on each side of the front, not too high, but not too low either. This keeps the front from turning, tipping, and bouncing. Ideally, the straps will go down, slightly forward, and out to the sides. Forward angle keeps the bike from rolling back. A wheel chock is preferred but not required. Kenny94945 mentioned bring the front wheel all the way to the front, but if you have a fender that sticks out past the tire like on a touring bike you run the risk of crushing the fender on the trailer wall. SO, if no wheel chock, use a chunk of wood between the wall and tire to close the gap.
You tighten the front straps enough to partially compress the front (the amount varies by opinion). My opinion is enough so that the weight of the bike standing free form when you get off is contained by the compression. The straps should also be tightened evenly such that the bike isn't leaning.
 
  #22  
Old 01-10-2019, 08:59 AM
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With my old Honda VTX I have also screwed a couple of pieces of 2 x 4 to the deck on either side of the front wheel to hold it in place. Worked in a pinch.
 
  #23  
Old 01-10-2019, 09:09 AM
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Check out the Lock-N-Load system. You don't strap to the front forks there is a strap over the tire so the bike uses the suspension just like you are riding. The two back straps will tighten up if you hit a bump. Check out the video on you tube don't know how to link to it. Used mine on a heritage and now a street glide just had to move the back straps for the street glide.
 
  #24  
Old 01-10-2019, 09:19 AM
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I don't know...but I could watch this instructional video all day...

 
  #25  
Old 01-10-2019, 09:33 AM
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I trained mine to "STAY", hence no need to tie down.
 
  #26  
Old 01-10-2019, 09:41 AM
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Been tying them down for 47 years. Not a problem during that whole time.
2 straps for lightweight bikes (<230lbs.)
4 straps for everything else.
 
  #27  
Old 01-10-2019, 11:25 AM
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For 18-years I used a wheel chock and tied it down at the handlebars. However, when I bought the FLHTK dreadnought, I put these HD chrome loops on. I have not had to use them yet.



 
  #28  
Old 01-10-2019, 02:10 PM
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Another vote for the biker bar. Pricey but the only attachment you will need and only touches the bottom of the frame. Very slick setup and glad I went that route.
 
  #29  
Old 01-10-2019, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Txride
Check out the Lock-N-Load system. You don't strap to the front forks there is a strap over the tire so the bike uses the suspension just like you are riding. The two back straps will tighten up if you hit a bump. Check out the video on you tube don't know how to link to it. Used mine on a heritage and now a street glide just had to move the back straps for the street glide.
That's what I have in my trailer. No pressure points on front end.
 
  #30  
Old 01-10-2019, 02:17 PM
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Dont use ratchet straps, Use cam lock straps instead. I have a set of SRT for my dirtbike and they work better than the ratcheting type and you have less strap to deal with also. The best places is any hard part like your fork or saddlebag guards.
 


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