WELL I got a problem. A while back I got some of the E3 spark plugs for my '04 Electraglide. The design looked cool so I thought I would run them to see what happened. I wasn't having any problems with the bike, it was running fine. I have been using NGK plugs for quite some time. Anyway, I put in the E3 plugs and rode the bike for 20 minutes, it was a cold day. Next day I thought maybe I would see what the electrodes looked like. Well, the plugs went in without any problems but when I tried to remove the plug in the rear cylinder, it only turned out about 3/4 turn and stopped. The engine was ambient air temp. I figured I would run it again and try to unscrew the plug when hot. Did that today, but it still wouldn't unscrew. I could have left the plug in but I don't like the idea of not being able to remove them. I put some torque on it and plug broke off at first thread. Now I have a bike that cannot run. So, I then tried the front cylinder. It turned out about a turn, maybe turn and a half then it stopped. It will not come out. Something is going on with those plugs. Now I gotta take the heads off (and see if i can break the front plug off at about the same place) and then see if I can somehow run them through and get them out going clockwise. What a pain in the *** especially because the ceramic is still in the core of the spark plug remains. Anyway, I am a mechanic, I have been wrenching for 40 years, never seen anything like this before. There was no problem with the threads in the plug hoes in the heads till I put these things in. I just wanted to mention it on here in case anyone was considering using them. You might just pass that idea up. The plugs were the correct ones for that engine (E3 plug number E3.36)

 

I might add that I am using flat top pistons still. I have the 95" cylinders etc and Short Block Charlie "Scottsman" head job. I've only had Champion and NGK plugs in those heads prior to the E3 plugs but never had any issues with them. I am NOT a happy camper right now, that I can tell you! If I can't get the threaded portions of the broken E3 plugs out of the plug hole, I'm going to have to do some drastic $$$ measures. Just what I need is another project right now.

 

Loosen the plug slightly and squirt some Liquid Wench or similar down the hole and let it soak for a day or so. Hope that will help lube the threads enough to get it out without stripping the threads out.

 

I've been feeding myself for 24 years turning wrenches. Started at a gas station, went to Chevy dealer ,did 8 years working on Audi's and VW's and now mostly Honda and Acura. You telling me you've been a mechanic for 40 years and don't know a gimmick when you see one? A spark plug only needs one path to ground. I bet that stupid "cage" design was kissed by the top of the piston and mushroomed just enough to keep it from coming all the way out. Hate to be cruel but shame on you for falling for a design gimmick by your own admission. Then you tried to pull a hot plug out of an aluminum head. Get yourself a set of time-serts and new factory plugs, there shouldn't be a need to pull the heads if you use grease on the time-sert cutting tool and/or shaving cream in the jugs while you cut.

 

You violated two rules:

Don't fix it if it ain't broke. Your other spark plugs worked fine for years. Spark plugs are spark plugs. I would have just bought another set of tried and true.

Don't use snake oil miracle parts.

 

Snake oils been around for years Should start a thread with snake oil examples
gear head related
- STP
- Marvel Mystery Oil
- sea foam

last two should ruffle a lot of feathers!

 

K&N air filters

 

Any shop familiar with extracting broken plugs from a Ford should be able to get them out & Time-Cert if needed. There is also a tool to crush the ceramic so an easy-out type tool can be used.

 

"Spark plugs are spark plugs" exactly!!
If a plug is working as it should, any other design won't work any better and will probably be worse. I've been around racing, engine building, etc most of my adult life. If you're running the recommended plug, it's gapped right and is the right heat range, that's as good as it gets!

 

Hindsight is 20/20. Thanks OP for the heads up on those plugs. Lisle makes a spark plug removal tool that might save you some aggravation, time and money. I am posting the link from Amazon but many places sell this kit. I should mention that even though this kit is not specific for this issue, it does solve the issue with removing sparkplugs where the thread part is unable to turn. Might be worth a shot before you resort to removing the heads.

Mike O from Main South Auto has a great video on Youtube that may be worth watching as he uses this tool to remove some sparkplugs from a Ford truck.

link: