steering wobble
#11
RE: steering wobble
Thanks to all, I have just found cupping on the front tire so I assume thats the culprit, I guess I will have to get it replaced. It only has bout 10,000 miles on it.
what woyuld cause the cupping????
what woyuld cause the cupping????
#13
RE: steering wobble
ORIGINAL: pococj
lbjohnson1, do you mind if I add that bit to the writeup I keep on file? Sounds like excellent advice.
Reckon I also oughtta make sure it is a "given" that the tire is good, the wheel bearings are OK, etc.
lbjohnson1, do you mind if I add that bit to the writeup I keep on file? Sounds like excellent advice.
Reckon I also oughtta make sure it is a "given" that the tire is good, the wheel bearings are OK, etc.
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: steering wobble
I have pretty much the same thing on my 06....a 37 - 43 mph wobble not huge but noticable to me.
I actually had it looked at yesterday when I had a service and was told it was most likely uneven tire wear on the front tire. I have 7500 miles on the tires with lots of tread left and I'm neurotic about checking the tire pressure.
I actually had it looked at yesterday when I had a service and was told it was most likely uneven tire wear on the front tire. I have 7500 miles on the tires with lots of tread left and I'm neurotic about checking the tire pressure.
#15
RE: steering wobble
Problems like wobble tend to be really basic,rather than serious like bearings or fork alignment. I would check the spokes in the front wheel.I would bet though,that you simply need a new tire. When you have the wheel off to get the tire,check the spokes,and you may need to have them tightened and trued. Don't forget the rear wheel also,check the spokes there. Tire pressue has already been mentioned. 2cents
#20
RE: steering wobble
"If you get a shimmy and more tightening does nothing to help, then suspect that the steering head bearings have shifted and the races are no longer parallel to the axis of the steering head. This is not unusual in HD bikes as they are relatively heavy. Modern bike head bearings tend to shift back and forth in the frame, especially on the heavier bikes, and this causes the bearings to become non-parallel. Any free play in the head bearings will compound this situation. This sets up torque forces that constantly try to correct themselves resulting in a shimmy, or head shake. The cause is not looseness; the bearings have shifted, and things ain't parallel. Pull the front end off and try to reseat the races in the frame neck."
This is a fairy tail. The steering head bearings have NEVER shifted or the races become non-parallel in my 26 years of turning wrenches on bikes both professionally and freelance.......its just bunk.
Oh and Yuck......when you say "I hit a deer wit my 69,,,,and developed a wobble about 200 miles later,,,,,,the tirehad cupped,,,,,ended up being a bent tube..... " I guess your talking fork tube, and not inner tube.......right?
If it were my bike........first thing that would get checked is the pressure.....and the second is the wheel balance....look for a place where a wheel weight may have came off. If it was a spoked rim...I would check for loose spokes. If all these things checked out fine, I would check the forks for play from front to back in relation to the frame. Then I would check for worn steering head bearings by turning stop to stop and feeling for a dent or worn spot. As long as the bearings are not worn too bad, I would look to just tighten the stem nut, and tighten the bearings down a bit more.....while keeping a eye on how much resistance there was while turning left to right. The prescribed H-D "check fall away" method is a joke. I have tried this many times, and ALWAYS find that my personal preference requires me to make the fall away measurement at least 25-30% more than what H-D says should be good.
But hey what do I know..........its late and I been drinking.
This is a fairy tail. The steering head bearings have NEVER shifted or the races become non-parallel in my 26 years of turning wrenches on bikes both professionally and freelance.......its just bunk.
Oh and Yuck......when you say "I hit a deer wit my 69,,,,and developed a wobble about 200 miles later,,,,,,the tirehad cupped,,,,,ended up being a bent tube..... " I guess your talking fork tube, and not inner tube.......right?
If it were my bike........first thing that would get checked is the pressure.....and the second is the wheel balance....look for a place where a wheel weight may have came off. If it was a spoked rim...I would check for loose spokes. If all these things checked out fine, I would check the forks for play from front to back in relation to the frame. Then I would check for worn steering head bearings by turning stop to stop and feeling for a dent or worn spot. As long as the bearings are not worn too bad, I would look to just tighten the stem nut, and tighten the bearings down a bit more.....while keeping a eye on how much resistance there was while turning left to right. The prescribed H-D "check fall away" method is a joke. I have tried this many times, and ALWAYS find that my personal preference requires me to make the fall away measurement at least 25-30% more than what H-D says should be good.
But hey what do I know..........its late and I been drinking.