Nobody said anything about downshifting wearing out the rear tire. I ride a bagger and stopped downshifting and now I get more mileage out of a rear tire. I downshift as I slow down so as to put no pressure on the drive train and I'm usually in 2nd gear when I completely stop. But y'all ride like you want to - that's exactly what I do..

 

+1 "Totally disagree. Proper use of clutch/throttle during downshifting prevents most problems. The purpose of a transmission is to match engine speed with road speed--at all times. Proper riding entails downshifing through the gears as you slow down--not coming to a stop and then crunching gears down to first."

As long as you match the engine and road speeds before you re-engage the clutch you won't harm the bike - lots of riders (even on sportbikes can't do this or don't get why they ought to do it) but it is one of these beautiful things that is a) safer, b) faster and c) feels good. Don't deny yourself - do it.

 

Again, totally disagree. Engine braking applies braking force to the rear pulley--braking applies force to the brake disc. Both forces are transferred to the contact patch of the rear tire. If you are noticeable wearing out rear tires by engine braking, you are releasing the clutch much too quickly, which is the same as hitting the brakes too hard. Both would apply equal forces (friction) to the contact patch of the rear tire, causing excessive wear.

Your post contradicts itself. First you say you stopped downshifting, and then you immediately say you downshift as you slow down, which is proper use of the transmission, except that you should be in first by the time you completely stop.

If you want maximum rear tire life while stopping, coast to a stop.

BTW, all of this is taught in the BASIC MSF course.

 

Try that philosophy with an 18 wheeler in the mountains and be sure to share the results.

 

Most riders don't do this. What you hear a lot is riders decelerating by shifting to a lower gear, letting out the clutch with the throttle rolled off, letting the engine slow down the bike, repeat. This causes excessive wear on the clutch. Clutches weren't designed to slow down your bike, that's the job of the brakes.

 

Confederate,
If you'll notice in my post I specifically said NOT in mountain twistys...and I never mentioned anything about 18 wheelers. However, If you're in an 18 wheeler in the mountains...I sure hope you have a Jacobs Engine Brake (Commonly referred to as a "Jake Brake" which retards injector timing to allow the engine to use compressive force to slow the truck down (thereby taking much of the strain off of the drive train).
....................................."Break" PNGRider, We will just have to agree to disagree. The term "Engine Braking" implies using the drive train to purposely slow down. I do practice the habit of staying in the gear for a given speed until it's time for a full stop...Then I STILL progress down through the gears (While holding the clutch in) to match my descending speed. Bottom line (physics really) is that the force of momentum has to be absorbed somewhere to stop a moving object. I would rather turn that force into heat at my brake pads (again in a normal...not downhill, or excessive brake need) rather than have my drive train (and YES rear tire too...the post about rear tire wear was correct) to absorb the force. By the way...the "Drive" train is engineered to "Drive" the rear wheel...not match it's speed (or the transmission...which "transmits" power FROM the engine) to the engine RPM.
-clutch-

 

if you ever have owned or driven an over the road truck for any time, you'd understand that engine braking is essential. just matching the road speed to the rpm's and gear works great. smooth is the word, and it's surprising how many riders just don't get it. ya ain't riding a zipper type hong kong piece of crap, so don't ride it like it is. just my opinion, your mileage may vary.

 

Yup, engine braking is essential to over the road trucks. Which my bike is not.

Look, I'm not saying I don't engine brake, ever. What I am saying is that I use my brakes far more than I use my engine, and I try to never never use my clutch to brake. And you're absolutely right about being smooth. All the time, every time.

 

"By the way...the "Drive" train is engineered to "Drive" the rear wheel...not match it's speed (or the transmission...which "transmits" power FROM the engine) to the engine RPM."


Again, wrong. A automatic transmission automatically matches road speed to engine speed. When driving a manual transmission of any type, you do it manually. It is as simple as that. Try rolling on the throttle at 10 mph in fifth gear.....

 

MNPGRider,
I'm 100% in agreeance with what this guy is saying. My primary cacher of braking force...is my brakes. I do keep my bike in gear with the speed I'm moving at. But, over the road trucks have Jake Brakes & a beefy drive train that more readily accepts braking force. It's really not worth arguing about. You pay for your own maintenance (and probably like me do your own) so, I have no issue with how you ride your bike. As for my riding habits...this isn't my 1st harley...or my 2nd...or even 3rd. I ride in a manner that keeps me from sliding down the asphalt, and costs me the least amount of down time.
-clutch-
P.S. By the way...thanks for what you do with the PGR thing.