Sorry to hear you have to goto that extreme for a tune!
What I was trying to say or ask about the tuner was, if you have the T- Max program on a laptop, would they let you use the dyno and tune the bike with your laptop, only using the load feature of the dyno. If you have some time, check out youtube for some of the T-Max autotune vids to get an idea what I'm thinking.
If you do have Steve @ GMR do the work you won't be disappointed.

 

It might be cheaper to fly Steve to Hawaii for a couple of days and have it work on it there.

 

It's all good. This way I can pick my bike up in early August, ride to Sturgis for the rally, and leave it in Colorado where it won't rust during my next deployment.

 

I am having very similar problems and gas mileage My 113 kit came with the 266E cam and breaking in my 2010 FLHX is very frustrating. When it goes to parade mode it often just shuts down. Guess the ECU is oblivious to the hi-compression when in parade mode. I ordered the latest SE RT software and is only has the map for the SE 264E cam, but I have not yet loaded it.

With 475 miles on break-in it is slowly getting better. I have a Jagg 10 row oil cooler to install which should help with heat and as soon as I can I am going to upload the 113 map. Guess I will not be well until a dyno tune to rid parade mode and O2 sensors to be responsive. The engine is still extremely rich, especially on the rear cylinder.

Ken

]I'm about 500 miles into a SE113 build and having some issues with it.

1. The bike sputters at low RPM.
2. It also "lurches" as I ride down the road....at all speeds...in all gears.
3. I'm getting 25 mpg despite the fact that others have reported 35+ with a similar build (I could care less about MPG, but if it's a sign of something wrong, I'm concerned with it). Steve at GMR thought I should be getting much higher, as well.
4. Black residue from the pipes is building up on my swingarm and on the front side of my chrome suspension cover. This hadn't occurred before.

Steps I've taken:
1. I've checked the map on my Thundermax and confirmed my AFR by calling the Thundermax tech support. Got 13.5ish. Every 100 miles or so I've written my learned fuel adjustments to the base map.
2. I've also done my 500 oil change with synthetic.
3. Ordered T-Man 625 cams and roller rockers at GMR's recommendation. This ought to bring the power band down to mid-range and might fix the sputtering at low RPMs? The SE266E cams don't kick in till like 3500 RPMs or so. Would cams designed to work at full throttle perform poorly and cause sputtering at 2000-3500 RPM?

 

so is it fixed yet ?$

 

I swapped out the Thundermax for a TTS Mastertune. That swaps the ECM and uses stock O2 sensors in place of the Tmax sensors.

Results:
-Sputtering almost nonexistent
-35mpg AVG
-No more overheating. The Idle Heat Management (or whatever it's called is working)
-Noticeable power loss, but increased rideability

 

Sounds good Marine...now you have to do some vtune runs. Your bike will run better. Just have to get a good base map to start off with.

 

Get it dyno'd. You need to get into the ballpark first before you hit the ball.