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Cam job parts list? Am I forgetting anything.

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  #11  
Old 03-01-2011, 12:33 PM
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cuda67bnl Ive heard you dont need it but how do you sugest to lock up the cam? Oct1949 how much is the 4deg key/sprocket. if its more than 50 buck ill pass. Once I go to 107 i dont think finding power will be an issue. Biggzed if I went with the 30t will I see and adverse afects once I go to a 107 plus I an getting tired of tearing into my primary frekkin 2 main shaft bearings 1 bad IPB and my stock compensator granaded itself. But all this gave me the oppertunity to go with the SE comp the baker IPB and install a SE pressure plate after a thurough cluthch inspection.
 
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Old 03-01-2011, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by soft 02
cuda67bnl Ive heard you dont need it but how do you sugest to lock up the cam?
Bike in gear, hold the rear brake...........
 
  #13  
Old 03-01-2011, 01:01 PM
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On the sons 09 NT he added the 4* advance gear to the SE 204's, its close to a $100, with tax and that was 2yrs ago..

After U do the build IMO don't know if U'll need the 30 toother, unless U do some stop light racing..

The cams will make 6th gear a real useful gear, I used to not use 6th very often at all, now after the cams she pulls as good in 6th at 60mph as she did before cams in 5th at 55mph.
 

Last edited by oct1949; 03-02-2011 at 02:35 PM.
  #14  
Old 03-01-2011, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by soft 02
cuda67bnl Ive heard you dont need it but how do you sugest to lock up the cam? Oct1949 how much is the 4deg key/sprocket. if its more than 50 buck ill pass. Once I go to 107 i dont think finding power will be an issue. Biggzed if I went with the 30t will I see and adverse afects once I go to a 107 plus I an getting tired of tearing into my primary frekkin 2 main shaft bearings 1 bad IPB and my stock compensator granaded itself. But all this gave me the oppertunity to go with the SE comp the baker IPB and install a SE pressure plate after a thurough cluthch inspection.
I don't think you will see any adverse effects. Besides the cost of the pulley you will need to factor in a new belt. This conversion requires the one tooth shorter (139 tooth IIRC) belt which they use on the Japan models. You will also need a couple of tools. A pulley locking tool and that big *** socket to get the trans pulley nut off. If you've had the primary apart, I'm assuming you've got some way to lock the primary for removal of those bolts. It's acutally pretty straight forward. Toughest part is getting that trans pulley nut loose. It's on there good.

I'm running the 30 tooth pulley with my 103 build that puts out 114/120. I love it. It's very quick for a HD.

Zach
 
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Old 03-01-2011, 01:52 PM
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Ill keep it in mind for down the road. I have the tools (home made). last time I bought a belt it was over $200. My pully's are starting to wear so when they get bad enough ill go for it. If you dont mind how much for the pully.
 
  #16  
Old 03-01-2011, 01:57 PM
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$135. It's Andrews part# 290304. Probably find it cheaper on-line from M&M or some of the other places.

I just realized you would be doing this on a softail. You will need to check on the belt. My Road Glide came stock with a 137 tooth belt. I had to use the one tooth shorter belt they ship to Japan (HD part# 40633-07). Not sure it is the same belt for a softail. Hope this helps.

Zach
 

Last edited by Biggzed; 03-01-2011 at 02:00 PM.
  #17  
Old 03-01-2011, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by cuda67bnl
Bike in gear, hold the rear brake...........
Better yet...go to walmart and buy a 1/4" plastic cutting board. Get your skill saw out and cut into 1-1/2" strips. Stair stepped them and screwed them together for the comp nut and trans nut inside the primary. Used a little scrap piece to place where the cam gears mesh when torqe'n the cam and crank nut. Cost me 'bout 3 bux.

Beav
 
  #18  
Old 03-01-2011, 06:26 PM
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some great information here... now if i can just remember it when it comes time for my build..
 
  #19  
Old 03-01-2011, 08:22 PM
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Thanks beav for the cam lock idea. Not to sure the wife is going to be too happy when a chunk of her cuttingboard is missing though.
 
  #20  
Old 03-01-2011, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by soft 02
Thanks beav for the cam lock idea. Not to sure the wife is going to be too happy when a chunk of her cuttingboard is missing though.
You bet...it's what this forum is all about.
Couple other things your gonna need...
You need the 1/2" and 7/16" dog bones to torque the rocker housings and box tops. Do you gotta have 'em?...nope. If it comes down to it, you can snug everything down, then begin your torque where you can get to it. After you've got one initially torqued, take a wrench and pull till you just barely feel it begin to move. This will give you a feel for the pressure exerted. Immediatly go to the fastener that you can't get the torque wrench on, and pull 'er down till it feels the same. Might want to start at lower torques than the manual calls for and step it up to get a feel for it. I used the 1/4" drive and converted it from ft/lbs to in/lbs. Read the manual, as it give specific warnings against using the dog bone and torquing strait on....it acts as a multiplyer. Be SURE you've got the torque wrench @ a 45* angle when using it on a 'bone...now's not the time to be stripping anything.

I'm sure the significant other will get over her old cutting board when you replace it with a brand spankin' new one for about 3 bux!!

Good luck,
Beav

Skip the dog bone stuff...got the big bore on the brain!!
 

Last edited by Beav; 03-01-2011 at 10:50 PM. Reason: More info than needed


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