So I take it you do not pull the drain plugs? You can't inspect the magnet on the drain plugs for shavings if you don't pull the plugs. They are there for a reason.

Oh and never used any thread locker/sealer on any of my motorcycles and never had a drain plug leak in 300,000+ miles on any of them.

 

I even go as far as to use an oil scavenger for oil changes, and am about to use the Red instead of the blue...





RED LINE OIL, that is, not Loctite!!!

 

Me too. I think the torque to spec is important. I do not even use teflon tape or anything like that. No leaks for me.

 

No loctite no issues. If i was going to use it, I would use it on support screws but not drain plugs

 

No loctite on the drain plug. As others suggested, use a small amount of Teflon paste on the drain plug threads.

In my opinion loctite, anti-seize and Teflon paste are as important as a torque wrench. I never install a bolt or nut on my bike without using one of the aforementioned products.

 

LOL.... No one here caught the obvious... The bung threads will be contaminated with oil so it does not matter if you use or don't use Locktight it will NOT STICK.... I love free advice

 

Years back I had a drain plug come out of one of my drag bikes at about 3/4 track, made for an interesting few seconds.
Not sure why, but I suspect the young helper I had never tightened it enough and I missed checking it.

Anyway, I went to using safety wire on anything else that needed to stay on.

Will I do it to the new WG I have, ya I think so, but not till winter when I put the cams, pipes, ac and whatever else I come up with.

Locktite?
No, I've had enough troubles with steel and aluminum to add locktite when not required.

Al

 

There's a blue colored thread sealant they use for HVAC sometimes sure that wasn't it ? Never heard of or seen loctite used yet thankfully .

 

no.. them threads arnt very strong anyway.. that is a good way to strip them out, plus it is not needed..

 

What I picked up over the years...

Only USE BLUE colored where applicable

Also both internal and external threads need to be 100% clean to be effective...

Also don't use on NYLOCKS really not needed if you use a new NYLOCK...

RED for Internal Rotating Engine Parts... Careful with dissimilar metals, very easy to strip or shear the weaker fastener on disassemble...

NEVER USE GREEN not unless you like drilling and tapping out fasteners.... It bonds at the molecular level....

MY credibility credentials...Retired 20 Years Master Machinist and part time Mechanic....

For those inquiring minds who actually give a ***** some more useless information from Locktight WEB site

Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242®

Is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing.

Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™

Is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).

Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™

Iis designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. Due to it's low viscosity and capillary action, the product wicks between engaged threads and eliminates the need to disassemble prior to application. Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It prevents loosening from shock and vibration and leakage from shock and vibration and protects threads from rust and corrosion. The product can also be used to fill porosity in welds, casting and powder metal parts. Localized heating and hand tools are needed for disassembly.