General Harley Davidson Chat Forum to discuss general Harley Davidson issues, topics, and experiences.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Crack in V&H Heat Shield - Repair?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 11-04-2013, 09:52 AM
fdb2007's Avatar
fdb2007
fdb2007 is offline
Road Master
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: n
Posts: 884
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

You won't like this, but you could stop drill it with a 1/8" bit. That will stop the cracking. That is common practice (under certain conditons and component dependent) in aircraft repair and jet engine exhaust.
 

Last edited by fdb2007; 11-04-2013 at 09:55 AM.
  #12  
Old 11-04-2013, 11:33 AM
SquidHead's Avatar
SquidHead
SquidHead is offline
Outstanding HDF Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: The Whale's Vagina
Posts: 2,291
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by fdb2007
You won't like this, but you could stop drill it with a 1/8" bit. That will stop the cracking. That is common practice (under certain conditons and component dependent) in aircraft repair and jet engine exhaust.
I'll do it to prevent it from spreading...it's ruined already so a small hole won't make it look any worse.

Where should I drill, middle, end?
 
  #13  
Old 11-04-2013, 11:43 AM
fdb2007's Avatar
fdb2007
fdb2007 is offline
Road Master
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: n
Posts: 884
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by SquidHead
I'll do it to prevent it from spreading...it's ruined already so a small hole won't make it look any worse.

Where should I drill, middle, end?
Both ends of the crack. Make sure that you get the end of the crack. It would be better to be a hair past the end of the crack and have it crack into the hole than to have crack extending past the hole. That would do no good. The hole relieves the stress and prevents further cracking. You could try a 3/32 bit if you wanted a slightly smaller hole, but it may not be as effective. Also use some finess on the drill, as I would guess the metal is thin plus your drill bit could walk on you trying to drill a curved surface.
 
  #14  
Old 11-04-2013, 12:03 PM
SquidHead's Avatar
SquidHead
SquidHead is offline
Outstanding HDF Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: The Whale's Vagina
Posts: 2,291
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by fdb2007
Both ends of the crack. Make sure that you get the end of the crack. It would be better to be a hair past the end of the crack and have it crack into the hole than to have crack extending past the hole. That would do no good. The hole relieves the stress and prevents further cracking. You could try a 3/32 bit if you wanted a slightly smaller hole, but it may not be as effective. Also use some finess on the drill, as I would guess the metal is thin plus your drill bit could walk on you trying to drill a curved surface.
Understand all, thanks. I've got an email in to spfabrication for a looksee as well. I live near their shop and think they may be able to make a more permanent repair to get me through.
 
  #15  
Old 11-05-2013, 06:49 PM
SquidHead's Avatar
SquidHead
SquidHead is offline
Outstanding HDF Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: The Whale's Vagina
Posts: 2,291
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

I heard back from V&H. They said I can call and buy a new sheild. I opted to go the JB Weld route.

When I went to take the shield off I found the hose clamp broken at the rear and the other was loose. Also found another crack on the other side. It leads me to believe that truck tread I hit last week may have done more damage than just the jiffy stand.

Anyway, the repair seems to have worked. I rode it today and checked it after...no cracks in the epoxy.

I am talking with spfabrication about something cool to replace the whole thing now. I thought I was done with mods for a while, but this has presented a new opportunity.

Thanks for all the advice.
 
  #16  
Old 11-05-2013, 07:16 PM
128auto's Avatar
128auto
128auto is offline
Extreme HDF Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Vancouver B.C. Canada
Posts: 10,117
Received 29 Likes on 26 Posts
Default

Already? That is fairly new.
 
  #17  
Old 11-05-2013, 07:25 PM
SquidHead's Avatar
SquidHead
SquidHead is offline
Outstanding HDF Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: The Whale's Vagina
Posts: 2,291
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

11 months, 12K miles. Warranty is only 90 days. Wouldn't expect it to cover this anyway.
 
  #18  
Old 11-05-2013, 08:31 PM
08Nighttrain's Avatar
08Nighttrain
08Nighttrain is offline
Road Master
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,122
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Being hit with a truck tread glad that's all that got broken.you might be able to get someone to tig weld it from the back side and since its black just repaint it.
 
  #19  
Old 11-06-2013, 10:38 AM
128auto's Avatar
128auto
128auto is offline
Extreme HDF Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Vancouver B.C. Canada
Posts: 10,117
Received 29 Likes on 26 Posts
Default

I used to have the same pipe on my fatboy, 3 yrs no issue. But I had the chrome version tho, sorry to hear that. The headshield is gonna be $150 at least.

Originally Posted by SquidHead
11 months, 12K miles. Warranty is only 90 days. Wouldn't expect it to cover this anyway.
 
  #20  
Old 11-06-2013, 11:12 AM
thephoenix612's Avatar
thephoenix612
thephoenix612 is offline
Cruiser
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: northside/J-ville FLA
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

i used solder awhile back to fill in dents. seems to work without heat being an issue.
 


Quick Reply: Crack in V&H Heat Shield - Repair?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:18 PM.