Gas leaking on a 02 softail
#11
07-06-2017, 10:48 PM
3rd Gear
#12
08-01-2017, 09:40 AM
Has anyone identified the size of the O-Ring on the male fuel line?
I hate waiting for delivery of an o-ring from ebay when I can just buy a set at the local parts store, but I want to be sure I get the right size. My original O-ring disappeared when I took my tank off yesterday. I understand the #41 is for inside the quick release valve, but I need the one for the male end of the fuel tube.
Any help would be awesome.
I hate waiting for delivery of an o-ring from ebay when I can just buy a set at the local parts store, but I want to be sure I get the right size. My original O-ring disappeared when I took my tank off yesterday. I understand the #41 is for inside the quick release valve, but I need the one for the male end of the fuel tube.
Any help would be awesome.
#13
09-23-2019, 08:42 PM
2012 HD Streetglide
I just pulled the quick release out of my 2012 Street Glide. It was leaking outside under the bolt. Big o ring looks fine. It's mostly metal and won't come apart. Can I get into fuel line, open it up to get to other rings? Everything just spins. Male end covered in plastic.
#14
03-28-2020, 02:23 AM
Stage II
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: WISCONSIN
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#15
10-23-2022, 04:29 PM
Assuming you have the one-fitting quick-release that is threaded into the bottom of the tank...
Here is a link to the correct set of o-rings to do the job: http://www.ebay.com/itm/252334494532...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I believe that the seller is a member here on the forums, and knows these valves well, having worked with them in production in the past.
I just replaced all three o-rings in my '06 Street Bob about a week ago that was doing the same thing--problem totally fixed. I ordered another set for the next guy who comes to my shop with the same problem...
A couple of tips for the job:
1. Drain the tank first. I used some spare 1/4 fuel line and siphoned out the tank from the fill cap, then drained what I could from the upper part of the fuel valve by inserting the male portion into it without the hose that goes to the engine attached. You'll figure that part out easily enough.
2. A common theory is that only the largest o-ring needs to be replaced, and that might work for some folks. It didn't work for me. The two o-rings that seal off the spring valves in either end had degraded to the point that fuel would push through and around them when under pressure. Digging them out of their respective places was like digging out old, hard cheese that was smashed into a sidewalk crack--with a dental pick.
3. With a 7/8 wrench, remove the whole fuel valve from the tank. It will take several revolutions to remove, and some gas will still leak out when it comes out, just catch it with a rag. Note that the in-tank line that feeds the valve will be twisted a few revolutions at first. Let it unwind so that you can see directly into the valve body with the slack that becomes available, and remember to rewind it before re-inserting it into the tank, so that the line isn't twisted when it's all back together.
4. Making sure that you get all of the old o-ring material out, begin re-assembling the valves in both ends of the valve, with the new o-rings. It's a little fiddly, but easy enough to do when you can see into the upper valve body.
All the best,
Shane
Here is a link to the correct set of o-rings to do the job: http://www.ebay.com/itm/252334494532...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I believe that the seller is a member here on the forums, and knows these valves well, having worked with them in production in the past.
I just replaced all three o-rings in my '06 Street Bob about a week ago that was doing the same thing--problem totally fixed. I ordered another set for the next guy who comes to my shop with the same problem...
A couple of tips for the job:
1. Drain the tank first. I used some spare 1/4 fuel line and siphoned out the tank from the fill cap, then drained what I could from the upper part of the fuel valve by inserting the male portion into it without the hose that goes to the engine attached. You'll figure that part out easily enough.
2. A common theory is that only the largest o-ring needs to be replaced, and that might work for some folks. It didn't work for me. The two o-rings that seal off the spring valves in either end had degraded to the point that fuel would push through and around them when under pressure. Digging them out of their respective places was like digging out old, hard cheese that was smashed into a sidewalk crack--with a dental pick.
3. With a 7/8 wrench, remove the whole fuel valve from the tank. It will take several revolutions to remove, and some gas will still leak out when it comes out, just catch it with a rag. Note that the in-tank line that feeds the valve will be twisted a few revolutions at first. Let it unwind so that you can see directly into the valve body with the slack that becomes available, and remember to rewind it before re-inserting it into the tank, so that the line isn't twisted when it's all back together.
4. Making sure that you get all of the old o-ring material out, begin re-assembling the valves in both ends of the valve, with the new o-rings. It's a little fiddly, but easy enough to do when you can see into the upper valve body.
All the best,
Shane
#16
10-23-2022, 05:39 PM
Elite HDF Member
#17
10-25-2022, 03:54 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post