Put new exhaust headers on (no cat).

Loaded in stage 1 - 044AAO003 today. With knock retard enabled I got some knock retard action in the front and rear. I wrote down the info (map, rpm, afr etc) If memory serves, knock may mean to lean. My AFR in the areas affected (lambda) is just short of going out of closed loop. The VE table numbers recorded are LESS than the original.
More fuel = lowering lambda / increasing VE tables. or, there is always the spark tables. Oh, this is only the first run.

baffled

 

FWIW... I had pinging with my 103, Stage1 SE255 with canned map and with DynoTune from dealer. Tried getting rid of it using AFR tables but was unsuccessful. Downloaded an app called MyTune. It read the file from my data run and told me exactly where to adjust the timing. Has worked like a champ since.

 

Ok, so you are starting from scratch.
do your data logs and get the VE not changing more than 5% (always 1st step)
make sure that there are no exhaust leaks
If after the VE are good and still getting knock retard find the cell involved and drop the advance a couple degrees at a time, re test. Lastly modify the fuel as you wish. If you do the fuel first you could mask an event is my thinking.

 

I agree My Tune does take the guess work out, and it has a better read of the data log IMO to correct the VE. $30?


http://www.tunemyharley.com/

 

Overall conciseness on MY Tune? Good? or so so

 

Shhhhhh... I would pay $50 for it. as GUZZ said it smooths out the VE when compared to smart tune which leaves it lumpy

 

For me, it took the guess work out of trying to locate the cells where pinging was occurring.

 

I will do more runs. I am just scratching my head over the firs run and the "new" VE's are smaller than the original map. I would think with Screamin eagle breather and mufflers and new header pipes (no cat) the VE would show higher numbers. ( more air.)

 

MyTune does a great job with timing corrections, but be careful if using the SE Pro Tuner as the VCI data often include large artifacts (12-55 degrees of timing!) at the very end of the data stream (generated from shut down of the bike). If you do not exclude these cells, your timing map could be way off. I just run MyTune and add the corrections by hand rather than copying the entire tables for Frt and Rear. Only way to prevent these artifacts on my bike is to haul a laptop with me for SmartTune Live data collection and then stop the recording and save it BEFORE shutting off the bike. No artifacts that way.

 

Or just press the button to stop recording data before hitting the kill switch.