OK, if you are ready to listen and answer then I will continue.

1) open the software and load the tune that you sent me.
2) the AFR is displayed, now click the + on the AFR at the left, you will see "original" . mouse over on top, hold down left click and drag original over top of the AFR displayed. It will ask if you want to replace but I want you to click on "compare". all the cells become '0'

This shows you that the AFR being used is the same as the original so no changes were made.

let me know when that is done.

 

I checked it out but all I can figure out is they made adjustments as I watched and put it back to were it was. When it was dynode I knew nothing about this program so watched him get into the settings but didn't pay attention the the table settings he made.


I wonder if the VE is so different due to tuning with the y pipe?

 

Vic
Please forget what you thought they did, I am trying to show you what they left you with so you can be informed instead of guessing.

Next, drag original front VE to one of the four spaces, then drag the working on top and compare to see the changes

In a separate space drag the rear original VE, then drag the working rear VE onto and compare.

Look at the changes displayed.

now answer this. since you did not get a stage 4 kit, how do you know you have a 103 piston and cylinder. I mean for sure, was it a used set of jugs, just jugs & pistons purchased new.

 

I bought the jugs and pistons from a friend brand new. Paper work said 103.

I apologise to Nutz but some of the questions I don't know so do the best I can.

it was asked the ccp, I don't know what that is. CC of heads. they were milled .05 thousandths. He just called it a street port and he did just a little grinding on the throttle body. I asked if he flowed them and he said no. He has done Harley heads for 40 years and flowed so many they come out the same so doesn't check the flow now.

I have a question, If a tuner doesn't do a smart tune how does he know if the VE is set? Is it buy the dotted line at the bottom of the dyno sheet? He just tries to keep the dyno line on that? I also noticed that the VE is a lot different from the front to rear even on the flash before he started.

Please hang in there with me, Ive learned a lot in just a week and its sinking in! I know I have a lot more to learn but Im not afraid to get into The ECU now and do things.

 

Earlier I had said that your map is either 205SAE004 or 009SBA001 for your year and for a stage 4 flash. This is a starting map calibrated for a stage 4 kit. By starting I mean it is used to then tune the actual build by being close to start with.

In your case you did not get the kit from HD but pieced it together. we have established you have kept the 4.3 injectors and the 50mm throttle body and had the head done.

Look here to see the difference between the SE260 used in the stage 4 kit compared to the TW555 you have kept.
http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/tccams.htm

so neither the 205SAE004 or 009SBA001 base map matches your build and needs to be tuned. You had it on the dyno and showed good numbers.
I will not second guess whether the tuner guy did a complete job or just got you a graph showing the max HP & TQ, you will have to ask him that question. The map you sent from the VCI has already been changed by you in the AE & DE as I do not see why the tuner would have made such large changes. Even the changes in the VE front may not be made by tuner guy since you have said that your friend made some reductions.

My purpose right now is to make you understand where you are at.
Do you still have the map that was completed by the dyno guy without any changes by you or your friend, then send me that. If not and you cannot get it from him then you are starting over. Before you do smartune runs reset AE & DE to original numbers, set injector to 4.3. save any updated changes to a new file name so you can always go back to this first one.

Or take it back and have him do a dyno tune

 

Dyno map sent canuck'

 

There is no change between AFR

1) your current map VE front is -15 across the board or 15% less than the dyno tuned map. The dyno tuned map is as much as 26% more than the base tune.

2) your current map VE rear is -15 across the board, again 15% less than dyno tuned map. The dyno tuned map is as much as 26% more than the base tune.

3) The dyno tune map already has large changes in the AE & DE, then your changes on top of that

4) Tuning constants are the same, both have 4.64 injectors when we know they are 4.3

5) Spark tables have no change

None of VE differences makes any sense to me so I have to bow out as my head is hurting.

You can choose to do some smartune runs and see what the VE's want to be, but I have no way of knowing where they should be with all these large changes

 

so Vic Hale. Have you changed anything on the bike since the dyno was done with this map? If so I would suggest you quit wasting your time throwing darts blindly and just move on to a fresh map that has not been bastardized, set your tuning constants properly and go do some smartune runs. The amount of time you've wasted on this so far, you could have easily been done with smartune runs and VEs and been working on timing, etc. What I see here is simply a case of not wanting to listen to the people who are trying to help you but instead you're suggested to do one thing and you go off and do something totally different which FURTHER affects what you are trying to do in the first place.

All I'm telling you man is simply this: A dyno'd map is irrelevant at this point if anything was changed since it was on the dyno. Either start over and listen to what people are telling you or take your bike back to the guy who tuned it and let him do it again.

Believe me you're not the only person that changes things up after a Dyno. I think Ed in Dallas has tuned my bike 3 times already. Why? because I keep changing crap on it to suit my liking. When I decide to change those parts that will affect the tune, I know it's going back to Ed. In the meantime, I take the last map Ed did for me, and I go vtune it (and usually all it takes is simple VE adjustments) to get me by til I get back to Ed and he can do it right. And I can assure you that when I get it back to Ed, he's not going to take his last map and work from there: He's going to start over, why? that's the best way.

 

Hi,

Come on Vic? hows the bike going, is it burning up the quarter mile or what

Thanks
Mirrmu

 

It is running good since I took the VE's down and the AE. Plugs look good but it has a whine and a knock and I think its the compensator. I get that fixed and I will start smart tuning.