Yes, the clutch on a 1975 is going to be the same as a 1974.
Sounds like the condition of the clutch plates is good.

When you adjusted the clutch ramp, did you do the following in this order?....
1) Screw in the adjuster at the primary cover to allow a lot of cable slack at the lever.

2) Turn the adjuster screw on the clutch release plate in 2 full turns after it touches the clutch release plate.

3) Turn the adjuster at the primary cover outward until there was zero slack in the cable at the lever. Not loose and not tight. Just zero slack.
Lock down the lock nut on the adjuster.

4) As the final step, turn the adjuster screw on the clutch release plate outward until it no longer touches the plate. Now turn it back in until it just touches.
Then turn it back out 1/2 turn and lock the adjuster down with the 13/16 hex nut, being certain the screw does not turn.

That is the correct way to adjust the clutch ramp and a lot of people think this is done by adjusting the cable adjuster at the primary cover to get the proper 1/8 inch gap at the lever end of the cable.
Many other brands of bikes may adjust like that, but not a Sportster. The adjustment is done as I have described above.

Also note, in case you are not familiar with a Sportster,,,,,,,,
the clutch on a Sporty is not like that on a big twin.
A big twin will clunk into gear making very little noise and the machine will barely move.
A Sportster will always C-L-U-N-KKK!!! loudly into first gear and sometimes go flying down the driveway as you are still holding in the clutch lever!
Just the nature of the beast.

Especially if the machine has been sitting for a while.
In such a case, I recommend starting the engine, roll the bike forward and jump aboard.
Put it into first gear as the bike is rolling and then just ride it around the block.
Things get set in quickly and the next time you go to put it into gear at a standstill all you will experience is a loud CLUNK and maybe the bike jumps forward just a bit.
That is a normal Sportster (of the ironhead vintage I should add).
A modern Sportster may shift as smooth as a big twin as far as I know. I have no experience with a modern Sporty.
pg

 

PG...

Wow... Interesting.

Reminds me of when I was 16 and ran the Yamaha 360 down the street to get it to start instead of kicking that bastard.

Okay... on to clutch stuff.

I've cleaned everything and can't find anything out of "tolerance". I did find a "kink" or sort of in the clutch cable, as in it has a bind when moving back and forth. I'll replace that and see what happens.

I did look at everything and can't see where anything is out of tolerance. Friction plates measured around .100 +/- .003 and have consistant wear. Pressure plates all were flat, but did show a "bow" toward one direction in the center; spacers were 1.530 as you described.

Once again, we're trying to get the bike ridable so that we can check out the trans and other stuff. Nothing more than that.

Pics attached. You tell me if you see something bad.

Okay... no pics. Danged thing won't let me upload them. I'll work on that cause I'm familiar with the software.

 

Here is how I do it........







pg

 

On the serial numbers, 3A: XLH
4A: XLCH
Mine went the other way, bought the XLH and added the kick.

 

Let me try again.

Works better if I remember to resize them to board limits before I upload. After having run a half dozen of these message boards for the last 8 years, I should know better.

First pic is typical pressure plate
Second is plate and friction disc
third is release adjustment screw... end is mangled so I'm replacing it
last is the friction discs laid out to dry. You should be able to get an idea as to their wear, but each measured .100 +/- .003 as I mentioned.

Oh, on your adjustment instructions, yes.. Your instructions are almost word for word out of the book (go figure 8^) ) and are the procedure we followed. If it doesn't work this time, I will give your pushing suggestion a try. Thanks.

 

Well, as I expected, I see nothing wrong with the clutch plates.
The adjustment screw does need replacing, so I agree with your decision to do so on that.

I have seen one case where the entire end of that adj screw had worn down to the threaded shank and that caused problems with getting the proper adjustment, but yours is still the full length. Just galled a bit on the end.

The adjustment screw seats into the releasing disc collar and when the clutch lever is pulled in the releasing lever rotates on the 3 ***** which moves the pressure plate (releasing disc) inward giving the clutch plates play to disengage the clutch. Nothing more to it than that.

So, I think it is time to hit the driveway.
Fire it up and put it into first on a roll then ride it around the block a few times shifting through all 4 gears.
When you get back you should be able to easily find neutral while sitting still and also get it into first while sitting still.
It is never going to shift smoothly like your big twin, but it should shift.
I see nothing wrong except the worn out adjustment screw. Provided you did the adjustment correct (and I know you did) then there is nothing else to cause the problem except that it is an ironhead.
Let us know how it shifts down the drive and around the block.
pg

 

Thanks PG.

We hope to get it back together tomorrow night and I will definitly give pushing it a try. It makes sense. Will let you guys know how it comes out.

Here's another thought to chew on... is there any way to tell the original color of the bike? I've seen nothing in literature I've read that says they put that info in the serial number. Title shows no color info and it's been titled in at least two states.

Does HD track that info?

 

In a word.....NO. The serial number does not contain the paint code.
The serial number system used on your bike was in effect from 1970 to 1979. Different before that in the 1960's.

The 3A or 4A indicates an XLH or an XLCH
The five digit number is the serial number.
The letter H means 'Made by Harley-Davidson'.
The last number designates the year the bike was made, i.e., between 1970 (0) and 1979 (9).
In 1980 the numbering system was changed again.
HD never had a record of the paint code during the 1960's and 1970's that I ever heard of.
pg

 

Ironhead models 1970 -> 1980 can easily sorted by VIN# by 2 first "numbers"
2G = XLT-1000
3A = XLH-1000
4A = XLCH-1000
4E = XLS-1000
7F = XLCR-1000

Location of VIN number: Numbers found on both engine and frame, frame is legal number
(some states DMV have other "rules" what is legal number)

The letter H means Decade Code


H = 1970 thru 1979
J = 1980 only so model season is 0 (zero)

# = Model Season
0 = 1970 1 = 1971 2 = 1972 3 = 1973 4 = 1974 5 = 1975
6 = 1976 7 = 1977 8 = 1978 9 = 1979

YES there is bike from 1980's that have "old" VIN so ... that VIN can end J0.
Harley changed to new 17 digit VIN's in 1981 models.

 

Okay... got any good sources on factory paint schemes for a 75'? Color pics would be nice.

Thanks.