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The Fix Is In!!!

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  #1211  
Old 03-14-2019, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by batmobile
I have to take my bike to the dealer for the brake cylinder recall before...
What is this brake cylinder recall of which you speak??? Or did you mean the secondary clutch actuator recall?
 
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  #1212  
Old 03-27-2019, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by $tonecold
Yes, I have one in my '15 RGS that has the DD7 Baker transmission in it. Just to clarify, it also has the 2014 three piece hydraulic pushrod. In many cases the three piece pushrod will stop transfer by itself. I have been looking for someone with a bike that transfers badly to try the relieved inner side cover. So far, I haven't had any takers. I really believe it will do job by itself, but until I can verify it I can't say for sure.
Are you sure the old style hydraulic side cover is interchangeable with the 2019 side cover and piston on the M8. It sure looks a lot different in the pictures.
 
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  #1213  
Old 03-27-2019, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by hdrider1
Are you sure the old style hydraulic side cover is interchangeable with the 2019 side cover and piston on the M8. It sure looks a lot different in the pictures.


He didn't say anything about the covers..
 
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  #1214  
Old 03-27-2019, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by hdrider1
Are you sure the old style hydraulic side cover is interchangeable with the 2019 side cover and piston on the M8. It sure looks a lot different in the pictures.
The inner side cover has been the same on the hydraulic clutch since 2013. Very same part number. The actuators changed in 2017 and upgraded to a B.
 
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  #1215  
Old 03-28-2019, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Mchad
I don't know if its been asked before, but would a softail cable actuator be able to be retrofitted? It uses the same clutch switch on the hand control, doesn't it? My Softail has a cable clutch and its not hard on the hand at all (I read someone said that the M8 clutch is too heavy w/o hydraulic.

If the hydro cover is the cause as you say here, that would fix it?
If it's too heavy with the cable, why are the Softails cable operated?

The info you seek is back a few dozen pages in this thread. Part numbers for the conversion and everything. Suffice it to say, it's cheaper to try a "fix".
 
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  #1216  
Old 03-28-2019, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Mattbastard
If it's too heavy with the cable, why are the Softails cable operated?

The info you seek is back a few dozen pages in this thread. Part numbers for the conversion and everything. Suffice it to say, it's cheaper to try a "fix".
I was saying it’s not. I have a sottail and I don’t have a problem with it. But maybe that’s just me and my meathook hands...
 
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  #1217  
Old 03-28-2019, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Mattbastard
If it's too heavy with the cable, why are the Softails cable operated?

The info you seek is back a few dozen pages in this thread. Part numbers for the conversion and everything. Suffice it to say, it's cheaper to try a "fix".
Originally Posted by Mchad
I was saying it’s not. I have a sottail and I don’t have a problem with it. But maybe that’s just me and my meathook hands...
The main problem with switching to a cable actuated clutch lies in the switches, more specifically the clutch switch. If you can get past that it can be done. Why you would want to is another question. There are remedies for transfer that work and ways to lighten the clutch pull on the hydraulic clutch. By the time you price out all the parts necessary to switch to a cable you will exceed the cost of the fat pushrod and the AIM actuator combined. That cost could be reduced by relieving the inner side cover to fix your transfer. That costs nothing but a few minutes time. Even after you install the cable system you might still wind up with a clutch with a stiff pull.
 
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  #1218  
Old 03-28-2019, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by $tonecold
The main problem with switching to a cable actuated clutch lies in the switches, more specifically the clutch switch. If you can get past that it can be done. Why you would want to is another question. There are remedies for transfer that work and ways to lighten the clutch pull on the hydraulic clutch. By the time you price out all the parts necessary to switch to a cable you will exceed the cost of the fat pushrod and the AIM actuator combined. That cost could be reduced by relieving the inner side cover to fix your transfer. That costs nothing but a few minutes time. Even after you install the cable system you might still wind up with a clutch with a stiff pull.
It was just a question. I have no evidence of transfer, and I have one of MCC's later pushrods standing by if it ever does.
 
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  #1219  
Old 04-01-2019, 06:56 AM
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Any long term users of the fix? I am considering this on my 17 limited. Am I correct that drilling a hole in the actuator is the only real fix to date? I just had the clutch recall done . Do those pieces stay?
 
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  #1220  
Old 04-01-2019, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by heythereuthere
Any long term users of the fix? I am considering this on my 17 limited. Am I correct that drilling a hole in the actuator is the only real fix to date? I just had the clutch recall done . Do those pieces stay?
There are several people with 20-30K miles on "The Fix". I am not offering it anymore though. The fat pushrod from MCC seems to be solving the problem, it is less expensive and easier to install. He has just recently improved it.

Drilling the hole in the actuator is not a fix. It was necessary with "The Fix" in order to vent the primary since installing a seal between the transmission and the primary no longer allows the primary to vent through the transmission. If you do it without the seal in place you will end up with transmission lube leaking.
 
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