Milwaukee Eight (M8) 2017 and up M8 Air and Liquid Cooled discussion
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The Fix Is In!!!

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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 09:57 AM
  #11  
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You are a "Steeley Eyed Missile Man". I wish you luck and I agree, sell the fix to the MoCo! Maybe they will name one of the new models the "Stonecold"
 

Last edited by Cbyway; Feb 21, 2018 at 09:58 AM.
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 10:34 AM
  #12  
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Looks good. Did you by any chance put an indicator on the nuts sealing surface to check run out?

It seems to me that the cost for the mod could be cut some since some tooling has been made on the first run.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 11:47 AM
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Been waiting for this post for a long time. Can't wait to hear the results.

Awesome job sir.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 11:54 AM
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A super thank you for all the digging that you did on this problem and for an initial solution. As you know a hardened and ground part for the seal to run on would be another step . great work !!!
 
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by $tonecold
When you get tired of that nice bike being at the dealer more than it’s in your garage, let me know. I have another side cover I can take to the machinist. I can get you done for about $200. I’ll know if it works by the end of March.
Looks good, but what's with all that pink fluid? If that's already over in the primary, its going to take a good washing to get it out of there.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Looks good. Did you by any chance put an indicator on the nuts sealing surface to check run out?

It seems to me that the cost for the mod could be cut some since some tooling has been made on the first run.
I think it was a one off with no tooling made.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 01:20 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Looks good. Did you by any chance put an indicator on the nuts sealing surface to check run out?
I didn't check it Max, I will take a look at it tonight.

It seems to me that the cost for the mod could be cut some since some tooling has been made on the first run.
There was no tooling, I had a machine shop do the work.

Originally Posted by chuckie
A super thank you for all the digging that you did on this problem and for an initial solution. As you know a hardened and ground part for the seal to run on would be another step . great work !!!
I considered hardening, the machine shop said it shouldn't be necessary with the grade 8 nut.

Originally Posted by Steve Cole
Looks good, but what's with all that pink fluid? If that's already over in the primary, its going to take a good washing to get it out of there.
Yes there has been probably a pint in the primary. I'm going to pull the primary cover and clean it. I have an AIM system I want to install before we do the cam tests. I will pull the plates out and clean them also.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Cole
Looks good, but what's with all that pink fluid? If that's already over in the primary, its going to take a good washing to get it out of there.
Looks like red line shockproof.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 02:12 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by $tonecold
I didn't check it Max, I will take a look at it tonight.



There was no tooling, I had a machine shop do the work.
I would have thought that the shop would have single point threaded a piece of 1 inch steel to the 3/4-16 and used it to cut the sealing surface centered on the threads.. I'm curious as to how close he got it. Seems to me that it would be the easiest way to grab the nut.. How tall was the nut you used?

As far as the cover goes, I would think that the machinist would put a couple holes in a pallet to hold the cover.. A better way would be to use the cover locating pins. Then once set up it would tale less then 15 minutes for each process. The setup / tear down, I would think, should be about 1 hour. Doing 20 sets should drop the price considerably.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 03:35 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
I would have thought that the shop would have single point threaded a piece of 1 inch steel to the 3/4-16 and used it to cut the sealing surface centered on the threads.. I'm curious as to how close he got it. Seems to me that it would be the easiest way to grab the nut.. How tall was the nut you used?

As far as the cover goes, I would think that the machinist would put a couple holes in a pallet to hold the cover.. A better way would be to use the cover locating pins. Then once set up it would tale less then 15 minutes for each process. The setup / tear down, I would think, should be about 1 hour. Doing 20 sets should drop the price considerably.
I'll be honest with you I don't know how it was done, I told them what I wanted when I dropped it off and when they called I picked it up. If I get demand for these then I will look into getting the price down. I would want to do an exchange where people send me a side cover and actuator and I send the modified ones back. I really think someone who is a machinist would be better suited for it. If someone picks it up and runs with it I have no qualms about it.

The length of the nut was .570". A quarter inch was left as hex. Seemed to work out well.
 
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