The problem with doing a sealed in the aftermarket is the sealed bearings that are available that would work are wider than the stock bearing. It would require pulling the bearing carrier and machining a new slot for the spring clip that secures the bearing and mainshaft. The side cover gasket would need to be designed to seal the transmission from the actuator, which can easily be accomplished, and in turn the primary. Then the primary would need venting. The hole I drilled would work. So a sealed bearing would work, but the extra cost was probably more than the bean counters could bear.

 

Bruce

I would put as large of a radius between the sealing surface and the nut area as will fit. Mark would have to let you know where on the seal surface the seal is at, but it would make the part much stronger. I have not looked it up but my guess is the torque value will be near 100 Ft Lbs on a nut that size and a sharper corner at the point is a problem just waiting to happen.

Mark

The seal specification typically will give you a min/max diameter for the seal ID. I would pick a diameter for the seal surface right in the middle of what they say.

 

Still appreciate all you guys are doin, (Stoney and Steve) but I still wonder about the idea of the CVO pushrod that was mentioned long ago. If it is truly a larger shaft closing up the transfer path.....some said that worked for them. Have not heard anything from anyone that has tried it recently though, especially the MOCO.

Eagle Out

 

Great job engineering what looks to be a surefire solution to the transferring. We all appreciate your time and energy.
Forgive me for asking, I have not had a chance to look at the transmission first hand when it has been apart. It is hard to tell exactly what is going on by just looking at pictures. It seems that your bearing seal coupled with gaskets will seal out all oil from the transmission. That will create a dry cavity between the seal and actuator. I get that, and thus the need for the drilled vent hole. What I do not understand is the need for the small seal on the actuator shaft. The small seal will prevent oil transfer to the primary. But won't this small seal also prevent all venting of the primary.

 

Was having a look at the parts list for the older touring hydraulic clutches ...they didn't seem to be sealed either, but used the "37069-90A OIL SLINGER ASSEMBLY" in there.

If it on the end of the old actuator rod used to work, would it retrofit (although your solution here is very elegant and probably more effective anyway).

which asks the question given that there seems to be no effective sealing on the cable clutches either (other than the Slinger) do you think cable clutch owners are going to need to think about this as well?

 

The torque for the nut is 75 lbs/ft.

The skf.com site has specs on shaft diameter, hardness, chamfer, and surface finish. The seal number is 10766. If I give Bruce the numbers there could be confusion, especially on my part. It’s best he looks at this himself, as a machinist he’ll know what he’s looking at whereas I do not.

 

The cover assemble is completely different on the cable model M8 bikes. I will be taking one apart in the near future so I could measure the difference between them. The TC cable bikes are completely different as well.

 

I don’t see the surface finish ...what was the callout

 

There is no seal on the clutch actuator shaft, by which I assume you mean the mainshaft that the clutch pushrod goes through.

I have looked back at previous hydraulic clutch models and have not found one that has a slinger. The microphish show both pushrods on some models. The 2014 CVO Ultra used a three piece pushrod that some European M8 owners have initially reported solved the transfer problem. We haven’t heard from them as to whether it was a permanent solution.

 

I saw a 2014 Ultra Classic on outpostalaska.com, and just a 2014 Touring on jerseyh-d.com that seem to show some kind of variation on the pushrods but the Slinger seemed to be common? It's just a drawing tho so who knows what may or may not fit.
(EDIT: ah, ok, the parts list on the Jersey site suggests the Slinger bit on the RHS is the same on all touring models but the LHS clutch side is different between models)

What struck me was that if a Slinger was supposed to throw any oil away from the centre shaft, why did they drop it ...and keep or put it back in on the cable operated softails?

Daft question, but does the pushrod need any lubrication?