Pan America teething pains
#41
06-20-2022, 04:15 PM
Here's some thoughts on this from me....in my case, I don't think it's the battery...
My bike has been excellent for 10K miles. A couple of very minor gremlins, but absolutely nothing major.
Recently, I have noticed that at times the battery isn't charging properly. At idle, the bike will show under 12V, where it should be closer to 14V. Very occasionally, the battery charging light (top right) will come on.
At the 10K service last week, my dealer looked at it, tested the battery (good) and the reg/rec (also good). They acknowledged the issue, but didn't know how to fix. Said they would write a technical report to the mothership and look for advice to fix it. They suspected the bike might need a new wiring harness.
When it shows this low voltage condition, if I am doing a lot of slow, stop start riding the battery won't charge. If I a do longer, higher speed stuff it will charge - but the voltage still only shows around 13 - 13.5V even at higher RPM. After a higher speed run, (when the battery has charged a bit), if I turn the bike off and on again, everything resets and all is fine again.
When the battery isn't charging properly, the bike will often start even at lower voltages than 12V (11.6V last night), but then I get codes and errors. Normally the "modes" triangle, plus the top left warning triangle, the ABS and TC warning lights too. The suspension will lock out high and the automatic bank lamp won't work. At idle and stopped, I can also hear a semi-random "clank" type noise and the idle may drop a bit. I am not sure what this is, or why it only happens with a low battery voltage, but I think it may be the cam phasers hunting for the right position.
What I think is happening is that on a lower voltage start, the IMU, EHCU and probably other electronic modules aren't getting a clean 12V to boot up, so are going offline. This leads to the TC and ABS warnings, the suspension lockout, the failure of the bank lamp (no IMU to tell it what the bank angle is), etc...
I think it's a problem with the Alternator/Stator. If I leave the bike on a battery tender so the battery is fully charged, the bike is perfect. This condition only happens when battery charge is borderline and the bike doesn't seem to be topping the charge up as it should.
Anyway, I shall be talking to my dealership tomorrow to give them the input and asking them to tear down the alternator/stator and test that. I'd do it myself, but reading the service manual, there are special lockout tools that are needed, so they may as well have a look at it.
I also read this recently (on FB I think):
"Then there's another and I'm not sure if it's a 21 or 22 but it had charging issues... they tested everything and couldn't figure it out. Voltages were crazy up and down, at load it wasn't charging at all. They pulled the stator cover off and found some of the bearings and plates were missing! Long story short, he's getting a new motor because they can't tell where the missing pieces went. This was the 1st time my local tech has taken a new Rev Max apart, he's done all the virtual training but this was 1st hands on."
My bike has been excellent for 10K miles. A couple of very minor gremlins, but absolutely nothing major.
Recently, I have noticed that at times the battery isn't charging properly. At idle, the bike will show under 12V, where it should be closer to 14V. Very occasionally, the battery charging light (top right) will come on.
At the 10K service last week, my dealer looked at it, tested the battery (good) and the reg/rec (also good). They acknowledged the issue, but didn't know how to fix. Said they would write a technical report to the mothership and look for advice to fix it. They suspected the bike might need a new wiring harness.
When it shows this low voltage condition, if I am doing a lot of slow, stop start riding the battery won't charge. If I a do longer, higher speed stuff it will charge - but the voltage still only shows around 13 - 13.5V even at higher RPM. After a higher speed run, (when the battery has charged a bit), if I turn the bike off and on again, everything resets and all is fine again.
When the battery isn't charging properly, the bike will often start even at lower voltages than 12V (11.6V last night), but then I get codes and errors. Normally the "modes" triangle, plus the top left warning triangle, the ABS and TC warning lights too. The suspension will lock out high and the automatic bank lamp won't work. At idle and stopped, I can also hear a semi-random "clank" type noise and the idle may drop a bit. I am not sure what this is, or why it only happens with a low battery voltage, but I think it may be the cam phasers hunting for the right position.
What I think is happening is that on a lower voltage start, the IMU, EHCU and probably other electronic modules aren't getting a clean 12V to boot up, so are going offline. This leads to the TC and ABS warnings, the suspension lockout, the failure of the bank lamp (no IMU to tell it what the bank angle is), etc...
I think it's a problem with the Alternator/Stator. If I leave the bike on a battery tender so the battery is fully charged, the bike is perfect. This condition only happens when battery charge is borderline and the bike doesn't seem to be topping the charge up as it should.
Anyway, I shall be talking to my dealership tomorrow to give them the input and asking them to tear down the alternator/stator and test that. I'd do it myself, but reading the service manual, there are special lockout tools that are needed, so they may as well have a look at it.
I also read this recently (on FB I think):
"Then there's another and I'm not sure if it's a 21 or 22 but it had charging issues... they tested everything and couldn't figure it out. Voltages were crazy up and down, at load it wasn't charging at all. They pulled the stator cover off and found some of the bearings and plates were missing! Long story short, he's getting a new motor because they can't tell where the missing pieces went. This was the 1st time my local tech has taken a new Rev Max apart, he's done all the virtual training but this was 1st hands on."
#42
06-21-2022, 12:20 PM
Here's some thoughts on this from me....in my case, I don't think it's the battery...
My bike has been excellent for 10K miles. A couple of very minor gremlins, but absolutely nothing major.
Recently, I have noticed that at times the battery isn't charging properly. At idle, the bike will show under 12V, where it should be closer to 14V. Very occasionally, the battery charging light (top right) will come on.
At the 10K service last week, my dealer looked at it, tested the battery (good) and the reg/rec (also good). They acknowledged the issue, but didn't know how to fix. Said they would write a technical report to the mothership and look for advice to fix it. They suspected the bike might need a new wiring harness.
When it shows this low voltage condition, if I am doing a lot of slow, stop start riding the battery won't charge. If I a do longer, higher speed stuff it will charge - but the voltage still only shows around 13 - 13.5V even at higher RPM. After a higher speed run, (when the battery has charged a bit), if I turn the bike off and on again, everything resets and all is fine again.
When the battery isn't charging properly, the bike will often start even at lower voltages than 12V (11.6V last night), but then I get codes and errors. Normally the "modes" triangle, plus the top left warning triangle, the ABS and TC warning lights too. The suspension will lock out high and the automatic bank lamp won't work. At idle and stopped, I can also hear a semi-random "clank" type noise and the idle may drop a bit. I am not sure what this is, or why it only happens with a low battery voltage, but I think it may be the cam phasers hunting for the right position.
What I think is happening is that on a lower voltage start, the IMU, EHCU and probably other electronic modules aren't getting a clean 12V to boot up, so are going offline. This leads to the TC and ABS warnings, the suspension lockout, the failure of the bank lamp (no IMU to tell it what the bank angle is), etc...
I think it's a problem with the Alternator/Stator. If I leave the bike on a battery tender so the battery is fully charged, the bike is perfect. This condition only happens when battery charge is borderline and the bike doesn't seem to be topping the charge up as it should.
Anyway, I shall be talking to my dealership tomorrow to give them the input and asking them to tear down the alternator/stator and test that. I'd do it myself, but reading the service manual, there are special lockout tools that are needed, so they may as well have a look at it.
I also read this recently (on FB I think):
"Then there's another and I'm not sure if it's a 21 or 22 but it had charging issues... they tested everything and couldn't figure it out. Voltages were crazy up and down, at load it wasn't charging at all. They pulled the stator cover off and found some of the bearings and plates were missing! Long story short, he's getting a new motor because they can't tell where the missing pieces went. This was the 1st time my local tech has taken a new Rev Max apart, he's done all the virtual training but this was 1st hands on."
My bike has been excellent for 10K miles. A couple of very minor gremlins, but absolutely nothing major.
Recently, I have noticed that at times the battery isn't charging properly. At idle, the bike will show under 12V, where it should be closer to 14V. Very occasionally, the battery charging light (top right) will come on.
At the 10K service last week, my dealer looked at it, tested the battery (good) and the reg/rec (also good). They acknowledged the issue, but didn't know how to fix. Said they would write a technical report to the mothership and look for advice to fix it. They suspected the bike might need a new wiring harness.
When it shows this low voltage condition, if I am doing a lot of slow, stop start riding the battery won't charge. If I a do longer, higher speed stuff it will charge - but the voltage still only shows around 13 - 13.5V even at higher RPM. After a higher speed run, (when the battery has charged a bit), if I turn the bike off and on again, everything resets and all is fine again.
When the battery isn't charging properly, the bike will often start even at lower voltages than 12V (11.6V last night), but then I get codes and errors. Normally the "modes" triangle, plus the top left warning triangle, the ABS and TC warning lights too. The suspension will lock out high and the automatic bank lamp won't work. At idle and stopped, I can also hear a semi-random "clank" type noise and the idle may drop a bit. I am not sure what this is, or why it only happens with a low battery voltage, but I think it may be the cam phasers hunting for the right position.
What I think is happening is that on a lower voltage start, the IMU, EHCU and probably other electronic modules aren't getting a clean 12V to boot up, so are going offline. This leads to the TC and ABS warnings, the suspension lockout, the failure of the bank lamp (no IMU to tell it what the bank angle is), etc...
I think it's a problem with the Alternator/Stator. If I leave the bike on a battery tender so the battery is fully charged, the bike is perfect. This condition only happens when battery charge is borderline and the bike doesn't seem to be topping the charge up as it should.
Anyway, I shall be talking to my dealership tomorrow to give them the input and asking them to tear down the alternator/stator and test that. I'd do it myself, but reading the service manual, there are special lockout tools that are needed, so they may as well have a look at it.
I also read this recently (on FB I think):
"Then there's another and I'm not sure if it's a 21 or 22 but it had charging issues... they tested everything and couldn't figure it out. Voltages were crazy up and down, at load it wasn't charging at all. They pulled the stator cover off and found some of the bearings and plates were missing! Long story short, he's getting a new motor because they can't tell where the missing pieces went. This was the 1st time my local tech has taken a new Rev Max apart, he's done all the virtual training but this was 1st hands on."
If your getting below 13 at idle and it only increases with RPM your coil is probably burned, I've seen this before. It will causes stalling at lights, intermittent low voltage warning lights and more.
You are also correct that if your battery is not full charged when starting the bike it will shut off certain features like the suspension locking in max height and stiffness.
#43
06-22-2022, 02:57 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
Your bike when idling should be between 13.9 and 14.2, of course this will fluctuate because of heated grips, Aux lights, cooling fans kicking in etc
If your getting below 13 at idle and it only increases with RPM your coil is probably burned, I've seen this before. It will causes stalling at lights, intermittent low voltage warning lights and more.
You are also correct that if your battery is not full charged when starting the bike it will shut off certain features like the suspension locking in max height and stiffness.
If your getting below 13 at idle and it only increases with RPM your coil is probably burned, I've seen this before. It will causes stalling at lights, intermittent low voltage warning lights and more.
You are also correct that if your battery is not full charged when starting the bike it will shut off certain features like the suspension locking in max height and stiffness.
Spoke to my dealer yesterday and they have authorisation from the mothership so far to pull the battery, reg/rec for more checks, check over the entire charging system, replace the BCM with a new one and review the pinning on the harness for the ARH as the mothership is reporting problems have been found here. They want to do this first before getting into pulling the stator/alternator apart - but if that is the issue, then they should/may find it while checking the charging system. They are also going to replace the lower coolant hose while they are at it as it is a little bit scorched.
So I am just waiting for a new BCM to come in and the bike will then be in the shop. In the meantime, it's perfectly rideable as long as I make the effort to keep it on the battery tender while I am not riding it.
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Danrides (06-22-2022)
#44
06-25-2022, 10:36 AM
Advanced
I concur with others that it is a small %. Currently in midpoint of a Idaho to Alaska ride, got 5k service at Anchorage HD, seemed like knowledgeable tech btw. Early on had to get rad hose slid up on radiator or it would have burnt. Other than that been GREAT. I am dumfounded why the radiator hose is what &/or where it is and that the battery voltage drops so low before ignition. Had a 2015 BMW 800GSA on this same Alaska route years ago and I find the PanAm is performing equally as well and is more fun and more comfortable.
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North of You (06-25-2022)
#45
06-26-2022, 12:30 PM
Novice
Over the week end my active suspension has been off and on. Acts like I've got the Adaptive Ride Height, which I don't. Got on the bike after multiple stops and the rear is low to the point I'm flat footing. Most of the time it stiffens right up. I can feel the rear raising up after about a half a mile or so. Or when I'm stopped it goes down as I'm sitting there, until a chick pulls up beside me, then it goes back up. I'm going to add some Viagra to the tank next time I fill it up.
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