All your wet sanding and buffing to a high gloss can be done by hand. Especially on a small item like a tank or a fender. No need to get high dollar buffing equipment for a once in say every 5 or 10 year paint job. If you start to do more, then start shopping for buffing equipment.

Check out the websites of companies that sell buffing and polishing compounds and you will get a mini education on what to use and when. Again, all can be done by hand and will get your arms buffed up also. YD

 

Got the tank finished , dash on, fired it up for first time since October. Fired right up.

 

Thinking about trying Color Rite's Black Denim on a batwing to match the set of like new bags I picked up with original H-D Black Denim paint. I'm not looking for show quality but wondering how difficult it is to get something close to the bags.

 

I haven't worked with denim but understand the base coat is the same type, the clear is just a "frost" clear or flat. I don't think you can wet sand it.

 

I haven't updated in a while, but I am almost done with the main tins. Still have to do the lowers and the tourpak.
I ran into a problem with both lowers. I sprayed them on a cool night a couple weeks ago and they got some pretty rough orange peel and some runs, No problem, will just wet sand and buff. First one came our real nice so I decided to install the lid and put it on the bike. I mounted the lower part on the bike, then held the lid and tried to get a screw started in the hinge and opps, it slipped. put 3 marks in the paint right below where the latch goes, Fudge me. Well, I finished installing the lid and checked it out. They were pretty serious marks. So I took some paint and a model brush (match book match works great also, the fuzzy end, for tough up but didn't have any. I sprayed the brush with a shot from the can and dabbed it in the damaged area. Did this with 3 "coats" and then dabbed some clear. It is still drying.

The other bag had a run in the outside rear so I wet sanded it and it left an area like It peeled an area away. So I scuffed it and shot a couple coats of color in the area, then a couple of shots of clear. Let dry for 4 days. Wet sanded it yesterday and it came out beautiful with some rubbing compound. So hopefully the other bad will come out this way. I am going to put the lid on the left side while on the bench before I install it. I will snap a pic this weekend.

I was amazed how I was able to repair just like on a car, you can do a spot in repair with the base coat / clear coat colors.

 

 

Just a little more polishing to do, and paint the tourpak and lowers. Turned out pretty good for $240 rattle can paint job.

 

Forgot to post some pics out in the sun.

 

Has anyone had long term success with the clearcoat on a front fairing? I'm worried about using their 1k clear on it and it not holding up to all the bugs and such. Also, the clear calls for a bonding agent that isn't in the repair kit! Did you also order that??

If it will not hold up, I will sell off the 2 cans of clear on eBay and just use a 2k clear.

 

If you keep a good wax on your paint, and wax it regularly, that will give you protection from bugs. I have had a few bug splats on my front fender and they came right off with warm water. Didn't affect the paint at all.