I'm almost too embarrassed to post this, but I need to know what my options are.

2016 Low Rider S

Installing an exhaust bracket on the trans side (bearing?) cover I misread the manual and set the torque value to 30ftlbs, where is was supposed to be 20. Ended up feeling the cover bolt start to strip the case threads. Stopped before it stripped completely, realizing what I did. But I'm sure I damaged the threads.

This is one of 8 bolts, the other 7 are fine. I'm figuring in order right to fix this right, the side cover has to come off and a helicoil will have to be installed. My question is, if it's not leaking, can I leave it alone for a while (meaning ride the rest of the season and let the dealer do it over the winter) or is there a safety issue I'm not aware of?

 

Most likely the (7) good screws will be more than adequate to hold and seal the cover, if you don't see any leaks, you're good to go. I would fix it however, most the time you can re-thread those and a helicoil may not be needed. Kastar makes the re-threading kits for both Snap On and Craftsman, or you can buy theirs off Amazon (its identical to my Snap On Kit). I use this kit more than I ever thought I would:




If the re-thread doesn't work, have a helicoil handy to put in, they are inexpensive. No need to go to the dealer for either procedure, these are both very simple procedures. Good luck

 

Thanks very much! I also figured the other bolts would hold it, but when I saw bearings and a torque sequence in the manual, it gave me anxiety.

I already looked at helicoil kits and a newer style kit "Time-sert" which looks a bit better to me. Either one should do I think.

FixMyHog recommenced a loctite "form-a-thread" kit which is basically epoxy. No thanks to that.

Question though. The thread repair kit you mentioned - it looks pretty much like a tap set. Is that it? Basically just running a tap down the existing threads?

To do the actual repair - give me a sanity check: Basically I just need to drain the trans, pull the clutch cable cover, pull the bearing cover, tap or repair the threads, replace gaskets and reassemble? (Of course I have the service manual for procedures)

Again, thanks.

 

Holy crap I just watched a video on removing the bearing cover. Easy job? I wish I had your experience level to call that easy!

Primary has to come off, sprocket off, special tools to pull some kind of sleeve off the driveshaft. Special tool for the driveshaft nut. Then the entire tranny comes out with that cover.

Well beyond my comfort level at this stage in my experience.

I might try the thread chaser, but if that fails, it stays as is until if/when it starts leaking. Then the dealer or an indy can do that what looks like a bloody expensive job.

Now I'm kicking my own *** even more for reading the wrong torque value.

 

I've not done that actual cover, so I'm generalizing, but you shouldn't need to remove it I would think, just run the thread chaser in the stripped hole and let it clean up the threads. That's what those re-threaders are - chasers. Easier to use and less involved than tap and dies. No way I'd pull all the shafts, either..not for this. Most the time the chasers will do good enough to hole a screw, if not enable you to really torque it down. But if its not leaking with the (7) in place, then you really just need that (8th) to stay in tight enough to not vibrate out.

Heck, we all do the goof ups, its part of wrenching.

 

Ok, I misunderstood. I thought you were saying the cover was an easy job!

I ordered a set of chasers. I clearly see the difference between taps and these. Though as not being a metallurgist I don't get how one can reform potentially stripped threads, but maybe I'm overthinking it.

I'm half thinking I should leave it alone since the bolt is still tight and it's not leaking. Ugh.

 

If it's not leaking, I'd leave it ................. for now! Of course you need to consider Murphy's Law? Keep an eye on it, be concerned with long trips. Get it fixed in the off season?

 

several on machine options
thread chaser is good but torque level must be reduced so
remove fastener and wind tightly some steel wool fine grade into threading, will give bite
fill the hole with aluminum filled epoxy, once dry, drill for tap size and thread
keen-cert are way better, heli-coils can come out, here probably not
best way is to remove, belt change is a good time, don't you just love BT

 

Pulled the bolt, chased the threads and didn't have good results. Bits came out and after the chase tap the bolt would only take 10ft lbs. spec is 20.

Called my dealer who told me they would pull the cover, install a helicoil for 4 hours. Honestly that doesn't seem to bad to me, considering the special tools needed. I'll probably let it stay as is for a while unless it starts leaking. Them let do it over the winter.

 

I'm trying to picture this in my head...can't you get at the stripped hole with a drill? And just do a helicoil??? I guess I'm not seeing the whole picture