Thanks you for this suggestion, I had made this mistake in the past so I was sure to not overfill since doing that.

I will provide an update for what works after trying a few more options. I'll probably install a stock spring for now and hold on to the heavy duty spring for later if needed after the engine work is done.

I too like a little less play in my clutch cable, so I adjusted it multiple times which helped but not quite there. I also played around with adjusting the push rod a tone of times which is a pain in the *** to do over and over. However, I only played with the adjustment from 1/2 to 1 full turn and everything in between. I'll try the quarter turn as mentioned.

Good call on blipping the throttle, as this was how I get it into neutral from second gear.

I think this will be my next move for the time being, unfortunately I tossed the OEM spring after installing the new clutch.....dang it! Guess I'll order one.

Unfortunately I tossed those along with the OEM spring.... 🤷‍♂️. I appreciate the diagram.

Thank you for all the replies!

 

Do you have an Easy Pull Ball and Ramp on your bike? Just asking because those typically reduce throw.

 

I do not have an easy pull....I was thinking about one if needed down the line. Have you installed one of these? I've heard mixed reviews, but mostly good.

 

They work well with stock clutches. I had one but removed it after installing an extra plate kit and having the same problems as you are. I ended up with the stock pressure plate, ball and ramp assy, and added 10mm ***** (larger) in place of the stock ones. That made up the difference. Plus I'm only about 1/8 turn out on my clutch adjustment.

 

The heavy spring is not the issue. The problem comes because the stack height of the extra plate kit is larger than stock, but with the same pressure plate travel. You need to tweak it to get as much travel as you can get and still have some freeplay.
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The heavy pressure plates are actually thicker than the lighter, stock ones so in that sense they do add to the problem.

 

For starters make sure you have a 1/2" to 5/8" slack in your primary chain.. Next, when you adjust the clutch just back the adjustment screw off 1/8 - 1/4 turn.. After that go with the 10 mm ball bearings in your clutch release ramp on the other side. They are .020" larger in diameter than the stock .375" bearings.. The best I could do with the stock setup was .068" on the clutch pack.. I have a video on YouTube that proves it picked up over .016" of an inch separation on the clutch pack.. I as well run an extra plate kit in my '97 in Evo ,110 horse /114 lb of torque but I'm running a Screaming Eagle spring that holds the power no problem..

Also as mentioned that Barnett extra heavy spring not necessary...

 

Thank you, I'll add this to the list!

 

Brakeless,

I'm not trying to be rude, honestly, but what are your talking about?
There is only 1 pressure plate in the assembly, other than that there are friction plates and steel drive plates, and as I said, they stack up different than stock.
As experienced people here, we need to make sure that we use the correct terms about things when we are trying to help someone out, as some people may not have a lot of experience and not be able to interpret what we say. Like I said, I'm not trying to be rude or an *** here, just trying to understand if you are trying to say the same thing that I already said about the stack height of ALL the plates together
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I think we're on the same page. I'm mentioning the heavier duty spring pressure plate being the problem because it really doesn't allow all the play to be used with the extra plate clutch kits. Didn't mean to confuse anyone. They're thicker and take more pressure throughout the entire system to compress. Not really needed unless you have a high horsepower bike you're racing. And gorilla grip to go with them. I guess I have trouble being clear sometimes.