There is no problem with the spring pack other than as mentioned the piloting on the extension shaft could be a little tighter keeping the discs centered better. 47 knuckle and I are fortunate to work in, as in his case a machine shop, and in my case weld and machine shop. This is not a major issue even if you slap them in from 10 feet, but at the very least try to get them centered as best as possible with a dial indicator. If no indicator use a tape measure or something that will give some results. As to whether they will stay centered, probably not, but at least you tried.
As an example, my crank is junk anyway and planning a 113 build in the future so I just threw them in without going to any extra lengths. You know, just like your dealer would do.. Even with no attempt to center the increase in vibration is only slight. It did show me however if you have the means to do it reducing the larger dia spring bores will be on my list at engine upgrade time.
Ron

 

Hey 1947 Knuckle and rbabos, thanks for the clarification on the mod to the "New SE Compensator" springs. I understand what you are talking about now. I was just looking at mine in the box. Man, it's pretty sad when the Moco can't even get the "up graded" part right. I will most likely do that mod to mine before I install it. I can do the welding but, will have to take it to a machine shop to be turned. That could be a fairly significant source of vibration...one that the bike definatly does not need. Do ya'll think it might be better to run a bead all the way around the inside or, like ya'll are saying will be enough. In a way though, I could see that too much heat might soften the metal and make it less effective as a spring.

Respects,
Spanky

 

FATTDOG,you are right in saying that too much heat is bad. that is why I used TIG with .062" SS filler rod.You only need a bead about .062" thick.Do it fast and do not heat the zone too much . Four .375" long beads is plenty.As for the imbalance, I calculated that if all the springs are resting to one side ,the weight of the eccentricity is about .12 ounce.Which at 3 inches of radius, will give a centrifugal force of .84 lbs at 2000 rpm and 8.2 lbs at 4000 rpm. See http://www.precisionbalance.com/vtwin2.htm . Here is the procedure I used. Because the washers are stamped and have irregular edges ;first ,I took a light cut to the O.D. of all washers at same lathe setup.This gave me a perfect O.D. to chuck in the lathe.Then after welding the nibs on I.D. I machined the I.D. to size.With the washer chucked in the lathe with high side facing out ,I machined I.D. to size and also took a very light cut to the surface where the washers meet.I found that surface not to be very flat. To compensate for the amount I removed from the mating face of the washers, I cut the same amount from the face of the splined hub where it meets the rotor. This is also a possible way to increase spring pressure by removing more material and shortening hub.In cutting the face of the hub, I found it was not perpendicular to the axis of the shaft because the hub is not a machined part.Remember that one large washer only is machined with smaller I.D. to fit on rotor the other three are cut to fit on splined hub.To find size,I miked rotor were washer sits and splined hub where washer sits,you will notice that the rotor boss O.D. is smaller than the hub O.D. I allowed a clearance of .003" to .005".When installing, slide in rotor, then the one washer with smaller I.D. then splined hub then the rest of parts. This work may look excessive to most , but I am in a position to do it and I like to have things done right. Mike . (PS If you are worried about screwing up the springs or warranty,you can buy the springs pack separately.Part #83936-09)

 

Yep, same here. I have just installed the new SE compensator and have yet fired the bike. I have not put the primary cover back on so may take a look at the ID of the springs to verify what you are saying.

The stock rotor had the crap beat out of it by the old compensator.

 

I'm going to fit the new comp,mine rattles & bangs like a nut in a bucket,so i'm hanging on to every word on this thread I Can't beleive there are still some issues with the fitment of a newly developed part.But i'll still fit it.
Brit.

 

Will going to a 30 tooth sprocket help or hurt the engine

 

This trait is one of the causes for the comp becoming loose. Not because the bolt backed out but from the rotor being hammered into the spacer behind it and compressing the softer steel of the rotor until crush is lost. Then the rotor starts knocking on the spline. I' m sure you've been there , done that.
Ron

 

I was getting ready to machine the washers to fit but shouldn't the assembly be balanced? How is the weight difference going effect how quickly our engines rev?

 

Be really carefull on where you machine these things. If you remove any material where they contact, you are removing any preload and it will need to be put back with a separate shim. Without enough initial spring pressure it could be noisy and beat itself up. Just like the original crap did. The preload can be determined with a dial indicator placed on the face of the gear with the retaining bolt tightened just enough to take up the slack in all the parts. 0 the gauge and tighten the bolt until it stops. The difference in reading is the preload on the discs and should be the same or a few thou more when done. If you lost .030 after facing the disc contact areas you need to add a .030-.032 shim at the rotor before the first disc. If you can center the discs to within .005 any slight imbalance would not be noticable. The rotor itself is likely farther out of balance. As for increasing the the time at which the engine will spool up from A-B theoritically yes but I don't think you could tell from the seat. Everything seems to have tradeoffs in one way or the other. While not perfect, it will work out of the box, as is but the large disc centering seemed to once again elude the wanna be engineers at HD and once again the consumer is faced with ways to finish their job and make it right.
Ron

 

Had SE Compensator installed last month on my 08 Ultra, under warranty. The stock compensator was actually mashing under the load. It clattered like something was hammering the motor.

Had no power on take off and had to shift down on any small incline. When the starter button was pushed, There was this terrible load pop and then the engine would start. Found out that the power of the starter was overloading the compensator.

The SE Compensator made a huge difference in power. I can give it throttle below 50mph in 6th gear on hill and it accelerates easily. It starts smoothly and no more loud noises. I think the gas mileage is even better. What s big difference in the engine response.