bike wont shift into netural hile running
#11
#12
Nope....not the nature of the beast. When you're able to shift it at slow speed, all that's happening is the dog engagement is easier, because both shafts are turning and they will match at equal revs. It's sort of hard to explain, but at a dead stop or too high of a speed, the engagement is harder to achieve with anything dragging the clutch plates.
Yep, it's almost always a dragging clutch.
#14
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Summit, Mississippi
Posts: 1,456
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes
on
16 Posts
No differene in the transmission gear-sets whether it be an EVO or a TC...in the 5-speed family that is. The 5-speed gear-sets are practically the same animal.
One trick you may try that has often helped for me and on other peoples bikes. Adjust the lower-end (through the derby cover) by the book. The book specification for the cable slack (barrel adjuster) at the perch is 1/8-to-1/4 inch I think. This is not gospel and can be tinkered with. Adjust the barrel to have practically no slack at the perch to make sure you getting all the lift out of the mechanism in the tranny case.
Fluids will make a difference as well. I tried to use one of the highly advertised 20/50 synthetic motor oils in a 97 once and got as far as the end of the driveway and came back home to drain that crap out. It simply would not shift at all. Redline (bubble-gum) is real good stuff.
One trick you may try that has often helped for me and on other peoples bikes. Adjust the lower-end (through the derby cover) by the book. The book specification for the cable slack (barrel adjuster) at the perch is 1/8-to-1/4 inch I think. This is not gospel and can be tinkered with. Adjust the barrel to have practically no slack at the perch to make sure you getting all the lift out of the mechanism in the tranny case.
Fluids will make a difference as well. I tried to use one of the highly advertised 20/50 synthetic motor oils in a 97 once and got as far as the end of the driveway and came back home to drain that crap out. It simply would not shift at all. Redline (bubble-gum) is real good stuff.
#16
#17
I have a 97 lowrider and had the same problem talking with others guys who also have owned low riders of the same year or so they all have had the same problem. I would have to hand shift into neutral or rock the bike and play with the shifter. I just converted my bike to a belt drive primary and now she shifts into neutral just by looking at the shifter
#18
Twin cam here, so may not apply exactly, but I had a similar scenario with a FLHTCU that sat for 3 to 4 years without running (what a shame) when I bought it.
After changing fluids and adjusting the clutch a few times, I went to synthetic ATF fluid in the primary. Problem solved, I was able to find neutral as I should, and it just shifted better in general. I am still running the ATF after 5k miles, and she still shifts great and the fluid is holding up well with no burned odor or discoloration.
There are debates all over the place of using ATF in the primary, so I am not trying to start off another debate, I am just saying what worked well for me. I agree with an earlier poster that the clutch plates seemed sticky after sitting for years, and fresh Formula + and also Syn 20W50 did not improve the sticky feeling in my case, but the ATF did make a noticeable difference.
Also, on the Twin Cam, the Service manual says not to overfill the primary, as this will make the bike hard to find neutral and shift hard. Don't know about the EVO, but fill level may be an issue as well.
After changing fluids and adjusting the clutch a few times, I went to synthetic ATF fluid in the primary. Problem solved, I was able to find neutral as I should, and it just shifted better in general. I am still running the ATF after 5k miles, and she still shifts great and the fluid is holding up well with no burned odor or discoloration.
There are debates all over the place of using ATF in the primary, so I am not trying to start off another debate, I am just saying what worked well for me. I agree with an earlier poster that the clutch plates seemed sticky after sitting for years, and fresh Formula + and also Syn 20W50 did not improve the sticky feeling in my case, but the ATF did make a noticeable difference.
Also, on the Twin Cam, the Service manual says not to overfill the primary, as this will make the bike hard to find neutral and shift hard. Don't know about the EVO, but fill level may be an issue as well.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post