What is the best way to check the tension of the chain in the primary on a 2008 Road King? Have a noise when in neutral that goes away once I put it in gear. Does not go away when I pull in the clutch, just if in or out of gear. Noise sounds like something is "dry" if you will. No metalic noises, no slipping of clutch or performance issues. Thanks, docwayne

 

I have an '08 UC and found what's best for me is to remove the primary cover housing.

Takes about 20 minutes to R&R and gives me the opportunity to check all around the primary for other issues.

Just have a replacement gasket handy and the proper oil type/amount to refill.

Good luck!

 

Thanks, I have the cover off already. But how much play should there be in the chain? How do you check of there is too much slack? What are the parameters to know if the tensioner is worn out?

Thanks again.

 

Maybe I'm wrong, but iirc the newer bikes all came with the updated tensioners so unless you are at an extremely high mileage are you really sure they would already be worn to a point of needing replacement?

 

I don't consider 25k high mileage, but a friend had his making noise at less than 1k. Trying to start small before digging into the engine for other possible causes. Just want to know how much play is normal on the chain?

 

Thier is an updated auto tensioner that I believe comes stock on the 09 and newer bikes. Suposedly the first auto adjuster would either get too tight or loose. Cant remember. Thier is a great thread on this somewhere. The only difference in part #'s is a letter at the end of the old part #. If you look at them side by side the newer one is a little thicker and the ratchet is a little different. That bieng said I have 80,000 miles on my 07 and have had no issues with this one. You might take a look at the IPB or you main shaft bearing. Both of those have failed more than once on mine. Good luck.

 

If it adjusted itself too tight, it would wear faster.

If it's too tight it should "whine".
If it's too loose you should hear rattles.

In the OP's case, it ain't gonna be easy just by looking, unless it is so under udjusted that it has noticeable flop-around slop.

That chain will feel a little snug even in the right adjustment (unlike the old manual adjusters where you had specific guidlines). You have some spring action coupled with the auto adjustment now.

If it were me and I had the cover off like the OP does, I'd just back the adjuster off a few "clicks" and see if your symptoms go away.
No risk involved because the adjuster will adjust up again (if needed).

I don't change the cover gasket but every third time I have the cover off. Them suckers are costly.

 

Be sure your sprockets are in alignment by at least Harley specs. My were out due to a problem (see my album) The noise is not your clutch hub bearing since it only spins when the clutch leaver is pulled in. You should have 1/2" to 3/4" one way chain movement. Maybe a little less with the auto on it. Be sure you do not have a tight loose condition from run out which can be a problem with the auto since with the manual you just make sure you have enough slack in the tight position. Too loose is better then too tight. It has to get real loose to fill it in the drive train. Probably makes more noise but it doe not hurt anything that way

 

Hey Doc,

I'm glad you signed up. I'm sure you'll get some info here to at leased set you in the right direction.

 

As suggested above, there's about 1/2" of slack and that's just pushing up on the upper section of the chain...it should not hit the case housing in any event.



I just remove the tensioner and check for wear marks created by the chain. I've got 25,000 miles on mine and the tensioner is only very lightly worn.

While you have the tensioner out, check the teeth for wear. Mine has a bit of wear and allowed the tensioner to slip causing the chain to become too loose. I just sharpened the teeth with a fine file and put it all back together...works great now.

Hope that helps!