Clutch Adjustment By The Book
#101
05-30-2012, 09:01 PM
slipping clutch
your clutch is incapable to transferring the torque your engine is generating.
No adjustment will fix this, you need more friction inside your clutch to maintain engagement. You have three options. more surface area, by adding another friction and steel plate if your stackup dimensions will allow it, or you can add more pressure with a stronger clutch plate, or you can just replace the whole mess with a more capable clutch. If your existing clutch plates are glazed, a new set of plate may be an improvement, but likely only for the short term.
No adjustment will fix this, you need more friction inside your clutch to maintain engagement. You have three options. more surface area, by adding another friction and steel plate if your stackup dimensions will allow it, or you can add more pressure with a stronger clutch plate, or you can just replace the whole mess with a more capable clutch. If your existing clutch plates are glazed, a new set of plate may be an improvement, but likely only for the short term.
#102
07-15-2012, 11:20 AM
1st Gear
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Boston
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sorry to jump in but im not sure how to start a new post.
quick question on a 03 roadking have to adjust clutch every 150-200 miles not for slipping or dragging but because I keep getting alot of free play in cable at lever.
This has been hapening since I changed bars and new cables. Was not a problem with stock setup.
quick question on a 03 roadking have to adjust clutch every 150-200 miles not for slipping or dragging but because I keep getting alot of free play in cable at lever.
This has been hapening since I changed bars and new cables. Was not a problem with stock setup.
#103
07-16-2012, 07:22 AM
#104
05-21-2013, 01:55 AM
Road Warrior
I have a 2012 Ultra Classic with 15,000 miles. Recently, I noticed the clutch starting to engage if I was accelerating fairly aggressively in fifth gear - the RPMs would start climbing with no associated increase in speed.
I've adjusted the clutch in accordance with the factory manual three times now. I'm making adjustments at room temperature. The first couple of times - I backed off the adjustment screw 1/2 turn after feeling the first tension. Last night I adjusted it again and backed it off 3/4 turn before locking it down.
Slack at the lever is minimal - approx 1/8th inch. Bike shifts smoothly. Starts to pull just before halfway out on release of the lever. Everything seems ok but still getting the RPM runaway when aggressively accelerating in fifth. What might I try to do differently? Thanks in advance.
I've adjusted the clutch in accordance with the factory manual three times now. I'm making adjustments at room temperature. The first couple of times - I backed off the adjustment screw 1/2 turn after feeling the first tension. Last night I adjusted it again and backed it off 3/4 turn before locking it down.
Slack at the lever is minimal - approx 1/8th inch. Bike shifts smoothly. Starts to pull just before halfway out on release of the lever. Everything seems ok but still getting the RPM runaway when aggressively accelerating in fifth. What might I try to do differently? Thanks in advance.
#105
05-21-2013, 07:33 AM
what to do about a slipping clutch
Agreed re: adding a bit more freeplay, as your clutch pack wears down, you lose freeplay, so add some more between the throwout bearing and clutch pack.
Also, I've found the premier aftermarket clutch vendors are recommending non-synthetic automatic transmission fluid to give the clutch the best environment to do it's job. It might take two fluid changes to get the full effect. If this doesn't cure the slippage, you will need to add clutch surface area, add spring pressure, or both. There are replacement clutch packs out there that have an additional plate, and there are pressure plates out there that use centrifugal weights to assist the spring plate in building additional spring pressure at higher rpm.
Also, I've found the premier aftermarket clutch vendors are recommending non-synthetic automatic transmission fluid to give the clutch the best environment to do it's job. It might take two fluid changes to get the full effect. If this doesn't cure the slippage, you will need to add clutch surface area, add spring pressure, or both. There are replacement clutch packs out there that have an additional plate, and there are pressure plates out there that use centrifugal weights to assist the spring plate in building additional spring pressure at higher rpm.
#106
05-22-2013, 10:10 PM
Intermediate
Join Date: May 2013
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#107
05-23-2013, 07:22 AM
#108
05-23-2013, 07:24 AM
Put the bike in gear and give the end of the wrench a quick hit. If you have someone to help you, have them step on the rear brake.
#109
08-12-2013, 08:31 PM
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Got a 2011 ultra classic stage 4 with clutch spring comes with kit now have to pull lever to grip and bearly releases , if bike is hot cannot hit neutral and very hard to shift into first and second have tried adjusting cluch no joy always right at grip done half three quarter and one full turn out what am i doing wrong hate the wsy this clutch feels. Its a cable system . Should i try a quarter turn out will that make it release further from grip?
#110
08-13-2013, 07:50 AM
dragging clutch
Got a 2011 ultra classic stage 4 with clutch spring comes with kit now have to pull lever to grip and bearly releases , if bike is hot cannot hit neutral and very hard to shift into first and second have tried adjusting cluch no joy always right at grip done half three quarter and one full turn out what am i doing wrong hate the wsy this clutch feels. Its a cable system . Should i try a quarter turn out will that make it release further from grip?