We'll, I managed to have my answer within my theory. Once I had all the cable slack possible, I pulled the lever all the way in and then pushed it back out. Then I loosen the adjuster rod and then repeated the lever pull in and then back out. turned in the adjuster rod until I felt it touch and backed it off half a turn then repeated the lever action. I did this maybe ten times verifying that I was no longer receiving slack the adjuster or the lever. The lever was siting at about the half pull point, about half the free play then I started with with the adjuster rod fully disengaged. Tightend the rod nut, closed up the durby and adjusted the cable to the nickel width of slack. This put my clutch engagement/disengagement right in the middle of the lever pull travel, right where I wanted it. New lesson learned.

 

Hi All,

Thank you for the info on this thread. I have a question that i was not able to find an answer or similar case while reading. I have a 2014 FXDB - SE heavy spring and Baker heavy duty throw-out w the ball & ramp that comes with it. About 2k miles ago i noticed the clutch lever had a bit more slack than usual (about 1/4 inch), still rode normal just had more slack. I adjusted it by the book at the cable and clutch pack. It stayed at the adjustment for a few miles then developed the same amount of slack again. I took off the trans cover and checked the ball/ramp and throwout bearing. Everything looked ok, so back together it went. I put a 1k mile trip on it since then with the extra 1/4inch of slack shifting fine, but yesterday i noticed while riding, the slack in the lever grew to about a half an inch, i know its not good to grow slack all of a sudden. Then neutral became really hard to find when stopped. It would skip right to second unless i rolled the bike back and forth and messed w it. Anyone else have a similar situation? im about ready to start taking it apart but would like to know if this is common. 2014 FXDB with 21k miles, SE clutch SPring, Baker Heavy Throwout Bearing kit. Thank you in advance.

 

YEAHHH i did what was suggested from @Blueangel73 ,,and it worked great...i have been working on this clutch issue for a week...finally came across this thread,,and am happy as a clam... thanks to all...and blueangel73,,,,

 

Got a clutch question. I think it's been answered already but want to double check that I have the right info. I had my clutch off my 07 FXDB today to install mid controls..put everything back on how the repair manual said to but it never said to do any adjustments on the clutch. Started riding afterwards and noticed that my clutch lever was "looser" or had more play in it before I felt any pressure pulling it in, and it seems like it isn't actually engaging (or disengaging maybe? It isn't doing it's thing..) until it almost hits the bar.

Is this something I could fix just by a cable adjustment? Or should I do the whole adjustment?

Edit: I'm seeing now that this is exactly what some people WANT their clutch to be like. Before this bike I had a 78 Suzuki that had clutch issues since before I owned it so I have never known anything other than half the time having to manually push my clutch lever back out away from me.. So maybe I actually don't have a problem? Would still love some wisdom.

 

Whenever I remove the clutch entirely, I always do a full clutch adjustment.

 

Cool thanks, that's what I'll do then.

 

Once the clutch cable slack is obtained and clutch cable adjusters have been backed off COMPLETELY - Loosen the clutch Pushrod Nut on the clutch pack pressure plate free( 1 or 2 turns ),back off the inner adjustment clutch pushrod rod until loose ( releasing the pressure on the throw out bearing ) . Then tighten the clutch pushrod BACK CLOCKWISE until it slightly touches the throwout bearing ( you'll feel the slight pressure ) - then back off a 1/3rd to 3/4 turns . Hold the inner clutch pushrod at the desired 1/3rd to 3/4 MARK / "FEEL",THEN LOCK DOWN THE CLUTCH PUSHROD NUT . THEN go to the clutch free play adjustment nuts and cylinder in the cable that You let loose prior to loosening the clutch pushrod Nut and tighten them back until the clutch lever free play is gone and desired clutch lever free play is achieved ( a dime works perfect as a spacer/shim for general lever free play sizing) .
Put Your Derby Cover back on( check oil level before doing so ) and then for further free play or cable adjustmewnts use the cable Barrell and sleeve unit to achieve the dersired ease of finding neutral and other feel issues .

 

I was struggling with the Service Manual Instructions on my recently acquired 2011 FLHTK. After reading your instructions and seeing what problems others were having; I was able to get my clutch dialed in properly. Great information. Thanks for providing an awesome resource!

 

I've adjusted a bunch of different configurations ant they've always given me the expected results. I suspect that the biggest issue with the adjustment is that when adjusting to 0 clearance on the center adjuster, most stop too early.. Go until you see the pressure plate move, then back off until te adjuster comes loose, then go pack in for a zero point. Most think that are going to damage something if the screw the center screw too tight, It won't hurt anything.

 

Okay, I have an 87 FLHTC. I recently replaced the inner clutch hub, new BDL clutch, and new Barnett spring plate. I loosened the cable adjustment all the way out, (bike in gear), adjusted the clutch pushrod 1/2 turn out and locked her down. I adjusted the lever to 1/8' from lever and replaced fluid to proper level. I can find neutral fairly easily, and she shifts smoothly. But, when taking off in 1st she's really jerky. It's like i have to feather the clutch so she doesn't launch. Then yesterday morning. I started her up in 1st, and she started to creep with the clutch pulled in. Any suggestions?
In the adjustment, I had the cable completely slacked out (1st), and then adjusted the pushrod. I did not squeeze the lever before adjusting the cable. Did I miss a step maybe?