Aftermarket rocker shafts....
 

Hey guys, I am working on rebuilding the motor on what was originally a 1984 FXSB. I'm currently working on the rocker boxes and am replacing the rocker arms and shafts. I bought the J & P set and started fitting them yesterday. I put each shaft into the box, through the arm and spacer and went to torque the end nut down to measure the gap to see if I would need a shim. What I found was that all 4, when torqued down, ended up locking up the arm so that it wouldn't rock. After some confusion (I'm not a veteran at this) I finally figured out that the new aftermarket shafts, when measuring from the inside of the spacer (when pushed up as far as possible) to the inside edge of the "big" end of the shaft it was about .010 shorter than the old oem ones that had been in there previously. This basically allows for no room for the arm to have the recommended .004-.020 gap. What gives? I ordered up some Sifton brand arms from eBay today and will compare when they arrive. Did I do something wrong? From what I see there is no way to use the J & P brand shafts without machining the ends of the arms to shorten their length.

Hopefully my description is good enough.

Thanks!

Either bad manufacturing or you need to machine them down to fit.

Which would either be a pain in the ass, or the best way to do it (no need for shims) depending on your access to a quality machine shop!

I am lucky enough to have access to a good shop but am pissed on principle that a new part would need that type of alteration. Any opinions on where to do the machining? My guess would be on the left side of the arm.

JP buys them from v twin its china junk, making a spacer - you will never get them to stop leaking and once you use them you cant return them

Does anyone have any suggestions on good brands of rocker shafts and places to buy them?

Jimsusa.com

Vulcanworks.net

I think I would also give the tech guys at S&S a call as well. They build replica motors. They are getting their rocker arms and shaft from somewhere because I do not see the parts listed in their catalog. Maybe they could point you in the right direction

Yeah - I was being a bit facetious really. If you could send them back, I would do that. I'd be pissed as well if they didn't fit.

You could also look at Eastern rocker shafts - made in the USA and seem to have a good reputation:

http://www.easternmotorcycleparts.co...E_136_137.html

Thanks for everyone's input. These forums are a great resource. I'll look into those other brands and report back later.

And I like the MADE IN THE USA.

I've used those shafts with no issues before. Now I gotta ask are you 100% sure you got the assembly sequence correct ? Sometimes the spacer that goes against the narrow end of the shaft against the wear shoulder will develop a slight indentation from over torquing, with new good things can get a little tight. Flip the spacer over and try again.

Also make double sure the big end shims are in the right place, put them by the thick spacer can lock things up.

When I was messing with the J & P part I was following the factory manual.

After all this I am starting to be interested in the S&S 2 part boxes. I know they are a little expensive but I'm thinking of the long run cost and convenience. Anybody have experience with them?

Got them on my 93" shovel with roller rocker arms, so far so good. Clean tight and you can't see the seam if you take the time to get it all on and torqued correctly. HAven't had them apart again yet so can't say from there.

I'd just double check to make sure it all went together in correct order before you spend $$$$, easy to get it wrong even for us been there done that guys.

The new eastern parts will work but I have already been replacing so much on this rebuild.... the only thing left that is original are the cases and rocker boxes. I put a bottom end put together by a well known shovel guy in my area into the cases then added new S&S 80" cylinders, pistons, S&S heads, new Andrews cam..... I'll keep my original beat up rocker boxes for another day. I worked a crap load of OT the past few weeks and I've been thinking of blowing it on the fancy S&S boxes/arms. I like their design idea. It makes sense.

Here is where I am:
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...8e6317be26.jpg

What cam & lifters you going to run ?

Andrews AB and JIMS powerglide tappets

Jims are the shit, zero issues with those in an 88" I ran for several years with a Vthunder cam and ran it hard. Never floated or clattered on me.

Nice! That news gives me a lot to look forward to. I am very excited to be close to finishing this project. I have had pleanty of shade tree auto mechanic experience but this has been my first Harley Davidson. Ever since I was a kid I wanted a shovelhead era Harley. I've had a few older Japanese bikes when I was young (didn't have any money then, still don't have much now). Bought this bike just before turning 40. I'm lucky to have an old Harley mechanic to guide me through the process over the last several months. I was able to ride the bike for about 6 months before realizing my motor had issues. A loose bottom end led to a loose wrist pin which ended up trashing my front cylinder. I just said eff it and dove right in with the factory "bible" at my side and my friend to show me he ropes.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...8a423f24b0.pngTaken just before realizing I had a bad cylinder....
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...88c2ae8588.jpgThe scarring from the loose wrist pin... pretty deep grooves.

Suggestion...straight pipes may sound loud but they do nothing for torque and power. You need some back pressure.

I agree and have been considering (in order of cost):
-doing the lollipop bolt thing or
-finding mufflers that fit what I have or
-getting a 2into1 set to fit from an FLH. I want to keep my kicker though

I am a laid back rider and never get in much of a hurry. I plan on riding the shite out of this bike but not abusing it. I have friends who always push their bikes to the limit and end up with lots of extra maintenance (read spend lost of extra money). I am hoping my future grandkids will fight over who inherits the thing. In other words "high performance" isn't too big a necessity.

Panz is right about the straights. sound kool but the bike takes noticeable performance hit and power tends to go flat on in the mid range and they can be hard to tune to, will always seen the carbs off a bit.

Cycle Shack has a few styles available that let you keep the kicker with your battery setup and make decent horsepower, makes the bike very rideable through the powerband and easily tunable . Best part is reasonable price wise and they usually fit up nicely. I've been running one version or another since the late 70's on all my shovels

Great idea. I have been looking all over for the S&S rockers but like you say....nowhere to be found.

V-Ywin offers baffles that use can run in those straight pipes

Caution ::::: the ones you will find are ratio changed for evo cam in a shovel

shovel rocker ratio - 1.43 X 280 lobe lift nets .400 lift the H stock cam

shovel with the evo conversion rockers - 1.5 X 280 lobe lift = .420 - not really an issue

1.43 X 320 lobe lift a typical andrews performance cam = .457 - or .470 for a pan head - hen add the evo conversion rocker - 1.5 X .320 = 480 shovel

480 in a shovel the retainer location with the rocker box becomes an issue and relieving it usuall has to happen - or you can drop a valve in the engine while its running as the retainer is hiting it at angle and the keepers will not if jump out