my new 79 flh
#11
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rockher_man (05-18-2020)
#12
the rocker arms in a direction to quiet the top end usually with solid lifters, some machines sound like a bucket of bolts shaking around
some one invented a kit and the kit has a small spacer and a wavy washer that retains the rocker arm to the alloy box, under tension as the wavy part of the deal -- looked like a fix was a better deal for noise reduction
BUT the washer was spring steel and the hardness was not correct, so it broke up into pieces and fell into the oil return holes, returning oil to the lower unit. this is the issue small pieces of spring steel in the oil system small enough to end up in the breather gear and oil pump gears after the cam gearing chewed it up a bit more
the grains of spring steel in some cases returned to the engine and got into the connecting rod bearings < a mess one would say
and while I agree they need to be removed doing that is a time consuming thing removing the top end and your looking for fun with the new machine
SO - remove all the pushrods and pushrod tubes - with a small screwdriver the pushrod its self works, try to move the rocker arms back and forth - pushing it up into the rocker socket, to see if you can feel any side to side ( right to left movement ) you should be able to feel the factory type end play and NOT as if they have none - now they can be as tight as .010 to .025, the spec and I have used my finger to feel that spec with the heads installed to confirm they are not in the engine
I can picture one up as I have take outs but you get what needs to be done just to make sure they are not in the engine - my guess they are not but you need to be sure
some one invented a kit and the kit has a small spacer and a wavy washer that retains the rocker arm to the alloy box, under tension as the wavy part of the deal -- looked like a fix was a better deal for noise reduction
BUT the washer was spring steel and the hardness was not correct, so it broke up into pieces and fell into the oil return holes, returning oil to the lower unit. this is the issue small pieces of spring steel in the oil system small enough to end up in the breather gear and oil pump gears after the cam gearing chewed it up a bit more
the grains of spring steel in some cases returned to the engine and got into the connecting rod bearings < a mess one would say
and while I agree they need to be removed doing that is a time consuming thing removing the top end and your looking for fun with the new machine
SO - remove all the pushrods and pushrod tubes - with a small screwdriver the pushrod its self works, try to move the rocker arms back and forth - pushing it up into the rocker socket, to see if you can feel any side to side ( right to left movement ) you should be able to feel the factory type end play and NOT as if they have none - now they can be as tight as .010 to .025, the spec and I have used my finger to feel that spec with the heads installed to confirm they are not in the engine
I can picture one up as I have take outs but you get what needs to be done just to make sure they are not in the engine - my guess they are not but you need to be sure
#13
#14
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rockher_man (05-18-2020)
#15
so first question is for the second pic, of the brakes. The pedal is super loose side to side and it needs flushed and cleaned anyway.
The shaft for the pedal that comes off the bracket seems to be press fit but is a little loose. Any reason I cant weld it from the back side or is there sometimg simplier. most of the movement comes from the pedal shaft connection. Mine is held in place with a washer, lock washer and nut but doesnt seem to be anything pressing against the pedal to keep it from rattling around. What is the easy solution here.
I cleaned antique grease out of the grease fitting and it seems to work now, should i just pump it full or is there something im missing that holds ithe the pedal in place?
I can push the plunger in by hand and it actually feels pretty smooth
the boot is torn to hell
The shaft for the pedal that comes off the bracket seems to be press fit but is a little loose. Any reason I cant weld it from the back side or is there sometimg simplier. most of the movement comes from the pedal shaft connection. Mine is held in place with a washer, lock washer and nut but doesnt seem to be anything pressing against the pedal to keep it from rattling around. What is the easy solution here.
I cleaned antique grease out of the grease fitting and it seems to work now, should i just pump it full or is there something im missing that holds ithe the pedal in place?
I can push the plunger in by hand and it actually feels pretty smooth
the boot is torn to hell
#17
The speedo is held in place by a couple pins and circlips. The pins ride in rubber bushings. You need to remove that nut on the dash and lift it up to see what's going on in there. There should also be a rubber ring around the speedo to keep it from rattling against the dash. As far as the brake pedal shaft, that's all there is to it. You cans shim it and grease it as there was no zerk fitted.
#19
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rockher_man (05-18-2020)