1979 FXS Rebuild
#171
I made the mounting plate for the bosch relays the other day. The expandable rubber plug will go into the hole for the original speedometer cable:
It didn't fit like I planned so I flipped it over and put a bend in the plastic:
One by one I laid the wires where they go and marked them off on a copy of the wiring diagram I made. I got pretty far in one night:
I used spade connectors and shrink tubing to attach to the relays. The ones that I had weren't fully insulated, and I realized after I was done that I didn't like that. So I got a box of the right ones and will cut off and replace what I did. That's why I always leave the wires a little long. [edit to add that I will put some shrink tube on the exposed metal instead of replacing them.]
It didn't fit like I planned so I flipped it over and put a bend in the plastic:
One by one I laid the wires where they go and marked them off on a copy of the wiring diagram I made. I got pretty far in one night:
I used spade connectors and shrink tubing to attach to the relays. The ones that I had weren't fully insulated, and I realized after I was done that I didn't like that. So I got a box of the right ones and will cut off and replace what I did. That's why I always leave the wires a little long. [edit to add that I will put some shrink tube on the exposed metal instead of replacing them.]
Last edited by Joe12RK; 06-09-2018 at 11:02 AM.
#172
More progress on the wiring. I haven't ever bought a used vehicle that came with both keys, this one included. So I bought one of the Dixie ignition switches from BMI and wired it up. It feels a lot tighter than the old original. I didn't like the exposed terminals so they got shrink wrapped too:
Next came the headlight bucket wiring. Those little Molex plugs I bought are smaller than the Harley ones. OK for the pushbuttons, but I will use one of the original square block plugs for the rear fender light wiring. Crimp the pin or socket on the wire and stick it in the plug:
I finished laying out all the wires down the backbone and towards their final locations. They will go into a sleeve to protect them and keep them neat.
Next came the headlight bucket wiring. Those little Molex plugs I bought are smaller than the Harley ones. OK for the pushbuttons, but I will use one of the original square block plugs for the rear fender light wiring. Crimp the pin or socket on the wire and stick it in the plug:
I finished laying out all the wires down the backbone and towards their final locations. They will go into a sleeve to protect them and keep them neat.
#173
My father was an electrician so he had a few tricks for pulling wires thru conduit. Much of what he taught me works for pulling the bike wiring thru the plastic sleeve. I put the sleeve along the wires and made cut-outs where they had to exit or enter. I pushed a piece of 18-gauge wire thru the sleeve and connected the first two wires to the end. One trick is not to connect both wires being pulled to the end, so there isn't a big lump of wire and tape. Another trick is to connect a second piece of 18 gauge wire to that end also, so I have something to pull the next pair of wires with. Here the wires will be pulled to the right:
I did two wires at a time until they were all in the sleeve. Then I fed it thru the hole in the headlight bucket, and put the strain relief plug on the end. It also keeps water from getting inside the bucket.
It all fits nicely along the frame backbone using the original harness straps:
I did two wires at a time until they were all in the sleeve. Then I fed it thru the hole in the headlight bucket, and put the strain relief plug on the end. It also keeps water from getting inside the bucket.
It all fits nicely along the frame backbone using the original harness straps:
The inside of the headlight bucket is a lot neater than stock, too. I left a piece of 18-gauge wire in case I ever have to pull another wire through (another of my father's tricks):
When I was done, I hooked up power and blew the horn, just for fun!
Last edited by Joe12RK; 06-14-2018 at 10:13 PM.
#174
I like the tips. I bought a 70 GTO Judge from an inner city Baltimore resident. Just about every wire under the dash was cut. I had to lay everything out like you did and re-splice here, solder there. It really helps having a wire diagram. Years later, I found locally, a parting out 70 GTO and had a perfect uncut dash harness. Got it for $50. Well worth it.
It took me a long time to get into wiring and like you are doing, it pays to do it right the first time. Right gauge wire, good crimps, good solder, good heat shrink.. all pays off. Excited for you Brother and can't wait to see the final product.
It took me a long time to get into wiring and like you are doing, it pays to do it right the first time. Right gauge wire, good crimps, good solder, good heat shrink.. all pays off. Excited for you Brother and can't wait to see the final product.
#175
Thanks, and knowing it's done right gives me more confidence it won't leave me stranded...
I finished up most of the wiring today. Cut wires to length, crimp and shrink connectors, and plug in. Neutral, oil pressure and rear brake switch first. It's not in the factory location but that's were the brake hoses wound up:
Then the three circuit breakers. There were some white shrink tubes in the assortment so they went on the white wires for novelty:
Headlight hi/lo switch will be mounted to the top motor mount where the choke cable was:
Now that all the branch wires are done, I put zip ties on the main harness where they break out, to reinforce the cutouts.
I finished up most of the wiring today. Cut wires to length, crimp and shrink connectors, and plug in. Neutral, oil pressure and rear brake switch first. It's not in the factory location but that's were the brake hoses wound up:
Then the three circuit breakers. There were some white shrink tubes in the assortment so they went on the white wires for novelty:
Headlight hi/lo switch will be mounted to the top motor mount where the choke cable was:
Now that all the branch wires are done, I put zip ties on the main harness where they break out, to reinforce the cutouts.
#176
#178
#179
#180