OK: I bought this bike late 2013 and rode it just a short time before the oil leaks and electrical gremlins got to be too much. So in April 2014 I started to tear it down. Click on thumbnails to open:



That's when I discovered the frame was twisted:

 

I sent it out to Mike at 47Industries in NJ, and he did a great job straightening it. He cut out the bent tubes and replaced them, boring into the neck forging and using sleeves where he cut the tubes. You can't even tell. I would recommend him any day.



A little paint and I'm off to a good start:



While I waited I tore the tranny down:



That's when I bought a rental property and spent the next year and a half working on that....

 

Fast forward to this week... it's time to get back into this bike and put it back together.



Here is where I am today, working on the tranny:



And that brings us back to the first post here...

 

Yes that site has gone down hill in the past few years... but I don't see a lot of build threads here, except the ones adm and hellownewman are doing... just topics like where to put the gas cap when you fill the tank, haha that's the touring section, not here. I do enjoy your posts, John, I know you and a few others speak from experience.

 

if I did build threads I would not be able to do any work

my 1926 JD needs a top end done - I am chassis up restoring my 1948 indian chief and a 1946 one of 500 special builds - just finished a 1946 knucklehead bobber motor trans the bike is at the shop to be started and run in - a 1941 knucklehead I am chassis up restore in bruster green my bike - a 1950 chassis up restore pan a great job as it was all original in the startup - 70s shovel bobber fix what the shop that built it effed up - 81 flt motor / trans - 85 flht motor trans and swing arm / forks ect in a mechanical re do - 77 shovel fxe to a flh with paint and motor trans redo -odd collection of engines 48 pan - 54 pan - motor redos - a 331 hemi with 4 stromburg 97 -2 barrels going in a 31 ford - lt1 to 383 stroker and keeping the port injection - 427 SBC street race engine hi rpm stuff - my kids 540 super gas motor for our NHRA 68 nova. and a freshen up on a 67 FLH 20,000 mile one owner re do as a new buy one of the guys we did his 46 indian chief last winter - not going to make springs deadline as of right now

 

John, you have quite a shop full of work! I just hope you can find time to answer questions, no need to document everything you build

I wish the guy I used to go to was still in business, but he's gone, so I'm asking a lot of questions here.

Today I got deeper into the tranny - started on the countershaft. First thing I did was replace the 2nd gear bushing and put that back together. Then tried 1st gear, but the bushing won't go onto the cluster gear. It could be forced and I know that's wrong, but that will give you an idea of how close it is. What do you all recommend to loosen the clearance? It fits into the gear nice and floats freely.

I test fit everything and measured the end play - a tight 0.007" which is on the low end of Andrew's recommendation, but within Harley's specs. I think it's good.



But the bushings may have to be replaced, unless you guys think I can work with these:



The other thing is when I spun the gears dry they made a growling sound.But a little lube and they are quiet. I would say they are OK, but this one looks like it's been overheated. What do you think?



I can get new bearings if needed, but what do you think would cause something like that?

 

Last thing for today is the kicker. I want to bring everything to a local machine shop at once that needs fitting.
Here is the kicker gear, notice how the bushing is peened on one end? What can be done to prevent that? Or is that normal wear?



When he presses in the new one, should it stand proud like this? Is the gear still usable?

 

Think some of the grooves is how Harley designed the oil groove in the original bearing bushing. Replace the bushing if it's still obtainable. Doubt it's fitted.

What does the mating ratchet look like for the drive dogs of the kick start gear. A little deburring (just the raised edges to make it look pretty..not any smooth rounded area) where the starting motor has outrun it dragging acrosses the top edges should not hurt.

A new gear comes with the bushing for under $20 or so, so I would replace it. You don't need a machine shop for that.

 

Thanks, Ripsaw, I'll look at them closely. However, I've heard bad things about those $20 kicker gears. I would rather re-use my original HD gear, and already have new bushings in the Jims rebuild kit.

 

agree on the keep the OEM kicker stuff or buy baker nothing else is in any way worth the cheap short money

the cage bearing the only way to tell if its bad is damage, on the counter shaft in the location the bearing rides, post up picture of anything that is not Just shiny, any pitting or scoring both need replacement / bearings and shaft

the end case bushing dont look too bad from my angle - some light scoring is always going to be present once they are in use

the bushings under the gears have always been a thing to get on in some cases I warm them up use a glove and sort of wiggle it - try both ends then once it goes put the gear on after it cools - even if one side only turns, one test ride it will all be working just take it easy let the parts find a home