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Are these solid or hydraulic lifters?

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Old 05-15-2018, 08:02 AM
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Default Are these solid or hydraulic lifters?

Hey Guys,

Thought it’d be a good idea to adjust my lifters before firing up an unknown motor. Do these look like solids or hydraulics? Every bike I’ve owned had solids and they don’t look like solids...so my guess is hydraulic.

They spin (with some effort) at BDC, which is how solids should be adjusted. Don’t know if that’s normal for hydraulics.

Book says to loosen the locknut and screw them all the way down until the lifter is fully compressed and then back it out 1-3/4 turn. Does that sound right?

 

Last edited by Bill wallace; 05-15-2018 at 08:03 AM.
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Old 05-15-2018, 08:41 AM
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Bill those are solids. If you had hydraulics you would see the cup and the top part of the spring

 

Last edited by panz4ever; 05-15-2018 at 08:49 AM.
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Old 05-15-2018, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill wallace
Every bike I’ve owned had solids and they don’t look like solids...so my guess is hydraulic.
There are 2 kinds of shovel solid lifters...the one piece solids...and the hydraulic converted to solid
 
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Old 05-15-2018, 05:25 PM
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Panz and Tom, thanks Bros! No wonder they were adjusted just like solids...LOL!
 
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Old 05-19-2018, 05:28 PM
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Those look like Sifton solids, came in a kit with pushrods. If so the pushrods are weird size dedicated to that setup only, don't try to mix and match if change things.
 
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Old 05-19-2018, 08:15 PM
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TwizBro...explain that a little more. Don’t mix them up, if I take them out? Like put the front exhaust pushrod back in the front exhaust. Or, don’t use stock hd or other pushrods?

Thanks
 
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Old 05-19-2018, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill wallace
TwizBro...explain that a little more. Don’t mix them up, if I take them out? Like put the front exhaust pushrod back in the front exhaust. Or, don’t use stock hd or other pushrods?

Thanks
Don't mix the pushrods with other brand lifters is what I meant. If you do take them out just make sure the longer rods if there is any difference in lengths go to the exhaust side with the front being the longest. Aftermarket stuff came in all kinda configurations and lengths, not all mixes & matches.
 
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Old 08-24-2018, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill wallace
Hey Guys,

Thought it’d be a good idea to adjust my lifters before firing up an unknown motor. Do these look like solids or hydraulics? Every bike I’ve owned had solids and they don’t look like solids...so my guess is hydraulic.

They spin (with some effort) at BDC, which is how solids should be adjusted. Don’t know if that’s normal for hydraulics.
Book says to loosen the locknut and screw them all the way down until the lifter is fully compressed and then back it out 1-3/4 turn. Does that sound right?





For for the first time I'm doing the lifters on my Shovelhead i believe they are solids not sure..Are these definitely solid lift that I quoted.? Mine do not have springs on the lifters just a solid cup, when I do adjust a zero lash and then 3 full revolutions (like a hydraulic) i have piston to valve contact when turning the motor over by hand with the kicker if I just adjust them to zero lash I have no problems.? The cup is just a solid piece coming off the lifter no springs. The push rods have the adjusters on them. I'll try to get a picture later and post it thanks...
 

Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; 08-24-2018 at 07:23 AM.
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Old 08-24-2018, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
For for the first time I'm doing the lifters on my Shovelhead i believe they are solids not sure..Are these definitely solid lift that I quoted.? Mine do not have springs on the lifters just a solid cup, when I do adjust a zero lash and then 3 full revolutions (like a hydraulic) i have piston to valve contact when turning the motor over by hand with the kicker if I just adjust them to zero lash I have no problems.? The cup is just a solid piece coming off the lifter no springs. The push rods have the adjusters on them. I'll try to get a picture later and post it thanks...
Oh no, no, no! with solids you DO not do a pre load when adjusting you are opening the valve itself when you do that. With all solid setups best adjusting is to pull the plugs start with the intakes, roll the engine to the compression stroke for each cylinder and at TDC you adjust each lifter to zero lash with a very slight drag when spin the pushrod lock it down and spin the rod again, if it got stiffer to turn redo it or she'll fart & spit a lot when cold. Repeat for each lifter. Takes a little time to get the hang of it but best results. Best investment you can make for a shovel motor is upgrade the lifters to a good set of aftermarket hydrauilics like Vulcan or Velva Touch, I run Jims in mine but word is their QC isn't what it used to be I don't recommend them anymore.

An FYI, some solid conversion kits have a spring, DO NOT confuse this as being a hyd. setup and needing preload like the 3 turns down, it was a gimmick to try and kill the lifter rattle solids have that never works.
 
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Old 08-24-2018, 05:38 PM
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to go further on twists explain - the HYD lifter pushrod has a 1/4 inch nipple on the bottom that adjusts and a 3/8 ball on the top of the pushrod

conversion to solid ((( an oem hyd lifter ))) uses a 3/8 ball on the top of the pushrod But some have a 3/8 on the bottom with the adjustment others have a 7/16 ball on the bottom - and that only works with the correct insert to the oem lifter ( don't blend ) ---- and some kits like twist said have a spring ( that does nothing but cause questions ) and it is under the insert you install in the lifter to convert to solid lifters

other solids exist but that is for what they come into play with another job
 
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